RJ,

You should be able to do any needed repair to this dispenser,without a servicer.

But,

We need some help from you, first, to help pinpoint the possible problems.

When you select "cubed " ice,

Can you hear the shifter solenoid engage(pop noise) does the flapper solenoid engage and the flapper door open, and can you hear or see the dispenser motor run ?

You can, remove the ice bin, tape the door light switch down/closed and do these checks with the freezer door open(it's easier this way).

We look forward to your response, so we can get you up and running.

Thanks,
:) :) :)

If the problem was intermittent before complete failure that generally indicates something other than the control board. All my searching said to replace the main control board, I did and the problem remained, so before you do check the wiring. The problem is probably at the connector near the freezer hinge behind the vented kick-plate. The kick-plate is held in place by two very stiff clips about 1/4 of the way in from the ends. You will need to be aggessive to remove it but I suggest starting at one end and pulling out HARD. Be carefull to not let the plastic cut your hands though. Once you get that done and find the connector check the wiring at the connector. On mine there was evidence of corrosion but the problem obvious since the power wire connector pin was broken and pulled out of the connector. Go to Home Depot (Lowes doesn't carry what you need) or Radio Shack and get some 22-18 wire size male and female crimp connectors. Make sure to get some that will be complete shrouded once connected. Cut all of the wires from both sides of the existing connector making note of the wire colors and where they go. By the way, GE isn't real good about following through on their color codes. On my unit, it is black to black, blue to blue and red to white. I recommed using the female connectors on the wires coming from under the refrigerator since at least one is the "hot" wire and it will remove the possibility of it shorting should it be unplugged. Just as a note, if you have the knowledge necessary to use and Volt-Ohmmeter you can check the voltage at the connections behind the dispenser control board. When I checked the voltage was reading @12V but I noticed that if I put my fingers on the leads while checking, then the voltage dropped to about 8V. That was the clue that there was a bad connection somewhere that was limiting the current flow.

I pulled the kick plate off the bottom of the frig, but didn't see any wiring. It looks to me that all the wiring is in the freezer unit itself. Am I looking in the wrong place?

I apologize RJ for misleading you on the wire location. As Joe has pointed out the wiring (on SOME units) is routed through at the top hinge. For my particular unit both come in at the bottome hinge. In either case, I hope the rest of my information (kind of long now that I look at it) will help you find and fix your problem.