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I have a KitchenAid KDRP407HSS13. Oven and control panel display do not work. Checked Thermal Switch for continuity and it is fine. Never ran clean cycle anyway. Pulled top off and isolated the transformer #8300642/9760587. Checked continuity between two posts, nothing! Should I have continuity here? If it blew, from a result of a surge, what's the probablity that the board is toast? One last question, what if I forgot which post the white wire goes on, and the black wire? I know this sounds very stupid. Please bear with me.
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Originally Posted by: bobR65  1. Checked continuity between two posts, nothing! Should I have continuity here?...
2. If it blew, from a result of a surge, what's the probablity that the board is toast?...
3. One last question, what if I forgot which post the white wire goes on, and the black wire?... Sorry for the delay. 1. If the reading on any of windings is ∞, the transformer has gone bad. 2. Let say 50/50 3. Does not matter. - The control power transformer Part number: AP3968801
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dryer runs but does not heat.I changed theThermo Fuse,Thermostat,& Igniter. Now the dryer dosen't run it clicks what can I check now.
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Originally Posted by: rrod801 dryer runs but does not heat.I changed theThermo Fuse,Thermostat,& Igniter. Now the dryer dosen't run it clicks what can I check now. Where is that click coming from? Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene There are no special tests needed. If the house water pressure is good but the dishwasher does not get enough water, just replace the water inlet valve. There is nothing else what can cause it. - The water inlet valve Part number: AP3851486
Gene. I finally got the part and replaced it, but it turns out that I may have had the problem wrong. After replacing the inlet valve and finding out that water is coming into the dishwasher and heating up without a problem just fine, I found out that the spray arm still isn't turning. My wife then told me that she remembers water coming into the dishwasher before, but that the arm wasn't spinning. So I'll have to try re-installing the old inlet valve to double-check that the same amount of water is entering the tub. I now have to figure out what is causing the spray arm to not turn even with lots of water spraying out of the arm's holes. It appears as if at least the tower tip is turning some and I can definitely hear the motor and some of the plastics below the diffuser turning, so what else could be the cause?? I've slowly stepped through the wash cycle and opened the door to see how much water was in the tub and if the arm is moving, and there's PLENTY of water, but the sprayer doesn't move a millimeter.
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Possible the upper impeller (#28) is not working properly.
Gene.
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The upper impeller looks like it's in perfect condition, no wear that I can see. Is there anything in particular that I should be looking for on it?
Also, the plastic part that sits on the motor's drive shaft (the original part I was thinking needed to be replaced) is causing quite a lot of high-pitched squealing and clicking due to the friction caused by the two pieces of the part rubbing against each other when the motor spins. I can't see any other part that could be causing the noise, yet it doesn't appear that there is any damage as a result of the part not being whole other than additional wear to the broken part itself. Is there any possibility that the part being broken could be affecting the pressure in the system, especially with regard to the spray arm?
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Almost a month now with no reply...
Does anyone know if the pump motor's drive shaft adapter (for lack of a better term) being broken just above the fan-shaped disc will cause the spray arm not to turn? That's the only part that I can find any real damage to, yet the spray arm just does not turn even with full pressure, high heat water coming out of the spray arm's openings. There's plenty of water to get every single dish wet, even if the dishwasher is fully loaded, but the spray arm just won't budge unless I manually spin it, in which case it moves freely.
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A friend gave me a fridge about a month ago. Kenmore side by side. MN 795.78312.802
It worked great for about a month. Fantastic fridge.
Last night it just 'died'.?
THis thing is a 2009! Its in great condition. I don't get it?
It's getting power. What I mean is,,the source have current i.e. the outlet,,the power cord tests with current going through it.
I have a cheap voltmeter I bought recently,,It does not have a continuity setting. At least I don't see a continuity setting. Maybe it fried a switch or a relay along the line somewhere.
I'm just a poor guy trying to get by,,I can't afford expensive repairs. Sad thing is, we just donated our working fridge when we got this newer one!
Now we don't have any fridge.
Anyway,,,sorry about the rant,,,it just kind of upsets me this thing did this to us, thank GOd I have an old freezer in the basement and a decent coleman cooler.
Any ideas for finding the cause of total loss of power?
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