Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! You can not login or register.

Notification

Icon
Error

3 Pages<123>
Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
isomc01  
#11 Posted : Wednesday, February 16, 2011 9:53:19 AM(UTC)
isomc01

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/21/2010(UTC)
Posts: 14

With the wires disconnected we do have 120v from tip of wire to ground. The zero volts was from the connection on the board to the ground. I was also trying to say that without the wires connected, I would try to program the oven on but still get 0 volts. But when I do that I get an immediate error message so I am not sure it is even ever turning on. Something shuts it right down.

Also I am a little confused, with the oven power connected, but the oven not turned on should I be reading voltage at the connection of the heating element?
Joe / APP Team  
#12 Posted : Wednesday, February 16, 2011 12:08:21 PM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222

Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
Originally Posted by: isomc01 Go to Quoted Post
With the wires disconnected we do have 120v from tip of wire to ground. The zero volts was from the connection on the board to the ground. I was also trying to say that without the wires connected, I would try to program the oven on but still get 0 volts. But when I do that I get an immediate error message so I am not sure it is even ever turning on. Something shuts it right down.

Also I am a little confused, with the oven power connected, but the oven not turned on should I be reading voltage at the connection of the heating element?


Isomc,

Yes, and OK, you should have 120 VAC from the wire to chassis ground, we're OK and have one power leg(L1), like our first test.

You won't have 120 VAC on the relay board terminals, until the relay closes, based on the input from the control board and key pad assembly.

Here is a short description of operation,

L1 is power in from the terminal block, goes directly to the relay board and elemnts.

L2 is power in from the terminal block, goes directly to the relay board,and powers the L2 side of the elements, when a selection is made.

When you program a bake cycle, and there are no fail codes the L2 relay closes on the relay board and sends L2 out to the element, you already have L1 setting on the element, with 240 VAC at the element, it glows red, heats, and cycles off when the chip on the board reads the correct resistance,and cycles the relay to open, and L2 is removed from the circuit, and the element won't heat, until the relay closes again, and it heats again.

If I remember correctly, you did replace the ERC/Clock, and relay board ?

You may want to recheck your wire harness connections and make sure you did not miss a pin, on the connector, I have seen that occurr.
Also check the harnesses at the relay board connections, as well.


:) :) :)
isomc01  
#13 Posted : Wednesday, February 16, 2011 1:16:32 PM(UTC)
isomc01

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/21/2010(UTC)
Posts: 14

OK, thanks for the great reply. I have replaced both the relay board and the ERC.

Are you saying then that in the normal off situation L1 is still going to the element and that is why i am reading 120V? If I pull the baking element out, while hte unit is plugged in and do not touch my controls what voltage should I read across the two connections on my baking element?
Also, it was very difficult to pull the element out at all. I could just barely get the connections to come through the wall. Is this normal?

When you say wire harness connections can you explain more of what you mean? Just all connections or is this something specific.
Joe / APP Team  
#14 Posted : Wednesday, February 16, 2011 2:01:20 PM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222

Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
Originally Posted by: isomc01 Go to Quoted Post
OK, thanks for the great reply. I have replaced both the relay board and the ERC.

Are you saying then that in the normal off situation L1 is still going to the element and that is why i am reading 120V? If I pull the baking element out, while hte unit is plugged in and do not touch my controls what voltage should I read across the two connections on my baking element?
Also, it was very difficult to pull the element out at all. I could just barely get the connections to come through the wall. Is this normal?

When you say wire harness connections can you explain more of what you mean? Just all connections or is this something specific.



Correct, as long as the breakers are on, you will have 120 VAC at the elements. Wether you make a selection or not.

And yes, there is not much slack in the wires to the elements, it can be pretty tight,( I used to use clips to hold the wires out and away from the cavity, to do this test).

If you pull the element out and check across the two terminals of the element, you will probably have a 0 VAC reading(same power source). If you check each terminal to chassis ground you will have 120 VAC on each.

You have 3 connectors on the back of the ERC, J1,J2 and the touchpad ribbon from the control panel.
You have the same connections on the relay board.

I have, occasionally found that the previous servicer, did not properly align the connectors, to the pin connector on the ERC,or relay board, causing all kinds of false readings, and improper programming.

At this point, I'm running out of things to check, and need to return and re check everything.

The only check we havent made is 240 VAC at the relay board, with power applied

That would be L1(black on the front upper part of the relay board and L2(double red) located at the back lower portion of the relay board, with power supplied to the wall oven.

:confused: :confused: :confused:
isomc01  
#15 Posted : Tuesday, March 1, 2011 5:20:51 AM(UTC)
isomc01

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/21/2010(UTC)
Posts: 14

Again, thanks for your support on this. I double checked all the connections and they seem OK. I also checked for 240 on the relay board which read correctly.

I think I am going to go back through all your posts and make a new check list and go over it from beginning to end again.

Any other thoughts are always appreciated.
Joe / APP Team  
#16 Posted : Tuesday, March 1, 2011 6:13:35 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222

Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
Originally Posted by: isomc01 Go to Quoted Post
Again, thanks for your support on this. I double checked all the connections and they seem OK. I also checked for 240 on the relay board which read correctly.

I think I am going to go back through all your posts and make a new check list and go over it from beginning to end again.

Any other thoughts are always appreciated.


Isomc,

Your idea, going back through the posts, is better than mine.
(you may want to get an extra meter, so you can test both hot legs at the same time).

At this point I believe, you've got a power leg that drops out under a load,when power is flowing through the wires.

In the mean time, I'll review the posts as well, and see if I missed something, or can get a better idea.

:) :) :)
isomc01  
#17 Posted : Tuesday, March 1, 2011 10:04:52 AM(UTC)
isomc01

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/21/2010(UTC)
Posts: 14

At this point I believe, you've got a power leg that drops out under a load,when power is flowing through the wires.

What would be the cause or fix for this? Is it the Power Relay Board? Should I put the old one back in and see what happens?
Joe / APP Team  
#18 Posted : Tuesday, March 1, 2011 1:59:02 PM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222

Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
Originally Posted by: isomc01 Go to Quoted Post
At this point I believe, you've got a power leg that drops out under a load,when power is flowing through the wires.



What would be the cause or fix for this? Is it the Power Relay Board? Should I put the old one back in and see what happens?




No,

The loss of voltage on a power line/leg
could be due to:

A weak wire or connection on the wiring in the wall, back to the breaker box.
A weak or loose connection of the wiring on the terminal block, from the wall conduit wiring/power cord.
A loose,weak L1 or L2 wire from the terminal block to the relay board.

:) :) :)
isomc01  
#19 Posted : Wednesday, March 2, 2011 7:58:12 AM(UTC)
isomc01

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/21/2010(UTC)
Posts: 14

considering that the lower oven works fine all the time, would this mean that the third option is the probable cause?
Joe / APP Team  
#20 Posted : Wednesday, March 2, 2011 10:33:51 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222

Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
Originally Posted by: isomc01 Go to Quoted Post
considering that the lower oven works fine all the time, would this mean that the third option is the probable cause?



Isomc,

Correct, check the L1 and L2 input wires at the relay board, and see if you loose voltage when the relay closes.

Then check the L1 and L2 wires out to the elements at the relay board.

I take for granted , you did disconnect all the wire harnesses between the relay board and the ERC/Clock,and check for proper circuits and position on the pin connector(s) on the boards.

:cool: :cool: :cool: :cool:
Users browsing this topic
3 Pages<123>
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.