Isomc,

Yes, and OK, you should have 120 VAC from the wire to chassis ground, we're OK and have one power leg(L1), like our first test.

You won't have 120 VAC on the relay board terminals, until the relay closes, based on the input from the control board and key pad assembly.

Here is a short description of operation,

L1 is power in from the terminal block, goes directly to the relay board and elemnts.

L2 is power in from the terminal block, goes directly to the relay board,and powers the L2 side of the elements, when a selection is made.

When you program a bake cycle, and there are no fail codes the L2 relay closes on the relay board and sends L2 out to the element, you already have L1 setting on the element, with 240 VAC at the element, it glows red, heats, and cycles off when the chip on the board reads the correct resistance,and cycles the relay to open, and L2 is removed from the circuit, and the element won't heat, until the relay closes again, and it heats again.

If I remember correctly, you did replace the ERC/Clock, and relay board ?

You may want to recheck your wire harness connections and make sure you did not miss a pin, on the connector, I have seen that occurr.
Also check the harnesses at the relay board connections, as well.


:) :) :)

Correct, as long as the breakers are on, you will have 120 VAC at the elements. Wether you make a selection or not.

And yes, there is not much slack in the wires to the elements, it can be pretty tight,( I used to use clips to hold the wires out and away from the cavity, to do this test).

If you pull the element out and check across the two terminals of the element, you will probably have a 0 VAC reading(same power source). If you check each terminal to chassis ground you will have 120 VAC on each.

You have 3 connectors on the back of the ERC, J1,J2 and the touchpad ribbon from the control panel.
You have the same connections on the relay board.

I have, occasionally found that the previous servicer, did not properly align the connectors, to the pin connector on the ERC,or relay board, causing all kinds of false readings, and improper programming.

At this point, I'm running out of things to check, and need to return and re check everything.

The only check we havent made is 240 VAC at the relay board, with power applied

That would be L1(black on the front upper part of the relay board and L2(double red) located at the back lower portion of the relay board, with power supplied to the wall oven.

:confused: :confused: :confused:

Isomc,

Your idea, going back through the posts, is better than mine.
(you may want to get an extra meter, so you can test both hot legs at the same time).

At this point I believe, you've got a power leg that drops out under a load,when power is flowing through the wires.

In the mean time, I'll review the posts as well, and see if I missed something, or can get a better idea.

:) :) :)

No,

The loss of voltage on a power line/leg
could be due to:

A weak wire or connection on the wiring in the wall, back to the breaker box.
A weak or loose connection of the wiring on the terminal block, from the wall conduit wiring/power cord.
A loose,weak L1 or L2 wire from the terminal block to the relay board.

:) :) :)

Isomc,

Correct, check the L1 and L2 input wires at the relay board, and see if you loose voltage when the relay closes.

Then check the L1 and L2 wires out to the elements at the relay board.

I take for granted , you did disconnect all the wire harnesses between the relay board and the ERC/Clock,and check for proper circuits and position on the pin connector(s) on the boards.

:cool: :cool: :cool: :cool: