Here is your parts breakdown
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LTE5243DT5 WASHER/DRYER LAUNDRY SYSTEM | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a manual, it should be close to your unit.
Service Manual L-56 Large Capacity Thin Twin Service Manual - ApplianceDigest.com

You will have to join the site to download the manual but it is well worth it.

[COLOR="DarkRed"]spins,turns.....but there is no heat is it a heating element?[/COLOR]
Cannot say, you will have to do more trouble shooting.

[COLOR="DarkRed"]how much does it normally cost to fix if i have the part is it easy to fix yourself?[/COLOR]
Depends what if anything is needed, see the parts listing for prices.

First thing to check is the power.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
The motor etc. uses half the line while the heating coil requires the full 240 volts.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! [/COLOR]

Next would be the heater and the thermal fuse.

If the fuse is blown then check/clean your vent system as it is the most common cause of the fuse blowing.
If the vent is OK get back to us as there are other things you should check before replacing it.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

[COLOR="DarkRed"]is the fuse at the fuse box for the house or is it inside the machine somewhere? [/COLOR]
The fuse (thermal cut-off), I am referring to is Item 15 in Section 4 of the parts.
If you have a fuse box in your house then instead of resetting the circuit breaker, check the fuses. There should be two of them, one for each side of the line.

[COLOR="DarkRed"]is that what you ment for cleaning the vent system[/COLOR]
Not knowing how your vent system is connected I cannot say.
It must be clear on lint blockages all the way from the dryer to the outside. Also the vent louvers (if you have this type) must be opening.

You cannot tell if it is blown by looking at it, you need a meter.

Check the manual for how to get at it.