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Originally Posted by: Gene  To remove the outer door, open the door and remove the six T-20 Torx screws located three on each side of the inner stainless door.
Return the door back to its upright position, and bring the bottom of the door panel out toward you, then slide the top of the panel down and out from under the fascia panel.
As the outer door is being removed, the left or right door guards may shift or fall out of place. To reposition them, slide them back in over the hinge, lining up the door guard square tab with the hinge lever square notch. Please note: door guards must be in place before reinstalling the door panel.
After removing the outer door, remove the six T-20 Torx screws securing the fascia assembly to the inner door With the screws removed, bring the fascia assembly down cradling it so as not to scratch the fascia console.
With the fascia assembly removed from the unit, it can be further separated into two assemblies. To separate, release the four locking tabs and bring the fascia frame up from the fascia console.
Press in on the three locking tabs and bring the control module out from the console frame. Now remove the wiring connectors by pressing in on the locking tabs of each connector, then sliding the connector up and off from the control module. I would recommend to draw a picture of the wiring connectors sequence first.
Assemble in the reverse order.
The manufacturer has redesigned the cover and indicator lights. The APP CSR gave you the right information.
Gene.
Hey Gene -- I just got on when a friend asked me to evaluate his Bosch SHU3307UC -- is this substantially different from the one you've described here (3305)
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Both of these models are from same series and disassembly procedure is same too. Here are the break down diagrams for the Bosch dishwasher Model SHU3307 UC/12 (FD 8005 -)Gene.
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Gene, please bear in mind I am an amateur at this and the last dishwasher I had apart was my mom's probably 35 years ago.
Now I wonder about diagnosing this thing on-site: I've got here (at my friend's house) to find that the water is still not draining out. In fact, it leaks out through the door because there's a seal loose or something. How old might this machine be?
The control buttons seem to have a forced Cancel + Drain signal that I've tried entering all kinds of ways, and still the motor is turning and no drain. The power on just gets the motor spinning but nothing else.
What I do get is a change of display: the two lights above the left & right buttons blink with the middle one lit or unlit, according as I do this when the power-on button is pushed. So what should I do next here? I don't want to take off the door if that's not where the problem is.
Thanks again
Dave Funnell in Medford, MA
877-978-0800
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Hi Dave, The problem could be a bad drain pump motor as well as a bad control module. You'll find very useful the troubleshooting instructions from one of our previous posts: http://forum.appliancepartspros...troubleshoot-manual.htmlYou'll find this dishwasher is much less complicated than it seems to be after you'll learn it's basics. Gene. P.S. Unfortunately you have to take apart the door and fascia panel to access the control module.
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Hi Gene - Thanks a million for this. I have a little Radio Shack Multitester that I just replaced my 315 milliamp fuse on. If the control module on the 33 is like the others can I check resistances on that too? I would like to know now so I can get right into the job tonight, if you're still online to answer.
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Dave,
I believe you can use this multitester as well as any other which able to read Ohms. The control board is like the others and you can use all of instructions from this manual.
Gene.
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I stopped by to try the test protocol, and pick up something; when I pushed the two outer buttons BEFORE the ON button, the first thing it did was drain, so now I know we have a working drain motor. I wonder does that tell you anything about the control module already? It is still inside the unopened fascia (I am going to get my T20 on the way there after lunch)
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Combination of these two buttons works as a "cycle cancellation". Looks like the drain pump is probably good but the control module is still questionable.
Gene.
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2 questions now: door panel came off al right but 1) don't I need to cut off the circuit before going further? and 2) I can't understand the directions given below about the fascia assembly coming "down" and cradling it. Does that mean with the door closed now, or open? Since my friend's office is upstairs and I have an 877 number, could you give me a call? I will see first if I can locate the circuit breaker and then message you back in thiw string tho. Thanks
Dave
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I took the attached photos while replacing the controller module on my SHU5315. It captures the cable connection sequence for the controller as well as the power switch and ground wire. I hope this helpful. mdwest attached the following image(s):
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