new tranny-how tell if time to replace brake/clutch pads/shoes? - Appliance Repair Forum

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new tranny-how tell if time to replace brake/clutch pads/shoes? Options Email this topic Watch this topic Print this topic » Normal Threaded
Model: 1110.92591200	Brand: Kenmore	Age: 5 - 10 years
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rambelmont		#1 Posted : Friday, February 4, 2011 11:03:35 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 12/30/2010(UTC) Posts: 3		I am waiting for a new transmission to arrive, but while it is apart, should replace the brake shoes/clutch pads? How thick should the pads be? Or what kind of wear would show they need replacing soon? The clutch is not down to the rivets, but maybe 1/16" left before that happens. Are new ones much more than that? The brakes are thicker -- over 1/8" at the very thinnest. Most are thicker. How can I tell if they will need replacing soon? Thanks


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Gene		#2 Posted : Friday, February 4, 2011 1:31:46 PM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455 Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)		Lets go back a bit. Based on the information you posted earlier (http://forum.appliancepartspros...en-stops.html#post324503) more likely the problem is a bad motor. It was overheating probably due to a bad windings. What made you to think that the transmission is bad? Gene.


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Joe / APP Team		#3 Posted : Friday, February 4, 2011 1:53:28 PM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Moderators Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC) Posts: 5,222 Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)		Originally Posted by: rambelmont I am waiting for a new transmission to arrive, but while it is apart, should replace the brake shoes/clutch pads? How thick should the pads be? Or what kind of wear would show they need replacing soon? The clutch is not down to the rivets, but maybe 1/16" left before that happens. Are new ones much more than that? The brakes are thicker -- over 1/8" at the very thinnest. Most are thicker. How can I tell if they will need replacing soon? Thanks Rambel, Based on your information, I'd say you're about half way through both the clutch and brake pads, as long as there's not alot of shine(sheen) on the pads themselves, you'll be OK(depending on usage/ wear and tear)you can knock the shine off with emory cloth. But were it me/mine, I'd repalce them both, as long as I had it down and apart. Part number: AP3094432 Part number: AP3094537 But you decide. :) :) :)


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rambelmont		#4 Posted : Friday, February 4, 2011 5:13:06 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 12/30/2010(UTC) Posts: 3		Thanks for answering -- Gene, I tested the motor and it worked fine. The clutch was spinning and not getting hot, so it was not that. There was oil underneath, and that meant the transmission. Maybe if I had more skill -- and confidence-- I would try to take it apart, but and I think something caused the transmission to fail -- maybe the neutral drain, but I am not going to try to replace it. I have a rebuilt transmission on its way. Joe, thank you for your help -- I think the brake shoes are close to what is in the parts picture, but I will replace the inside of the clutch since the pads are so close to the rivets. And while it is accessible... FYI, for anyone reading this in the future, taking the transmission out was harder than any of the videos I saw. Unless you have a brand new washer, you have to get the special wrench or you will destroy the nut (soft metal) and it still will not move. Do not believe people who say you can use a chisel or screwdriver and hammer -- they are full of ....it. I had to use a lot of penetrating oil from the top (basket) to help release the transmission. Even then I had to hit the top of the shaft with a hammer and 2x4 (a good knock, not a blow) to get it to slide out. Also, to get the drive block and inner basket out and separated, I really had to give it a good couple of knocks -- again after oil. Be sure to use the wood to cushion the knocks. Again, thanks for your help-- RB


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richappy		#5 Posted : Saturday, February 5, 2011 2:52:04 AM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586 Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)		Not a good idea to pound the tranny out, will just score the spin tube bushings and oil will come out and the bushings will start to wear. Best to clean the rust off the tranny spindle at the top. This will allow easy removal. When putting it back, oil the spindle, will help in installation. Your tranny might be ok. These will leak oil due to a heavy spin load due usually from bad brake shoes. You can do the brake shoe test in my sticky "replacing direct drive washer brake shoes" to see if the brake shoes need replacing.


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