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I have a Jenn-Air Slide in Electric Oven with down draft exhaust. This is the second one, and has been acting up for the last few years. The first one they replaced at cost with this one! The power in the mountains where I live is quite erratic, lots of brown outs? I know this might be some of the problems killing the electronics in this oven? The Clock Display is now completely out, a few days ago, I cycled power and it worked for a while. I have it all apart, and BEFORE buying a new Display Board (71001799), I would like to get schematics and wiring so I can check power voltages on the four pin connector and do other trouble shooting? Can anyone supply a link or email a service manual or wiring for Jenn-Air SVE47600B? Thanks, Mike:) Mike@DogItDesign.com
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Originally Posted by: MotoDog  I have a Jenn-Air Slide in Electric Oven with down draft exhaust. This is the second one, and has been acting up for the last few years. The first one they replaced at cost with this one! The power in the mountains where I live is quite erratic, lots of brown outs? I know this might be some of the problems killing the electronics in this oven? The Clock Display is now completely out, a few days ago, I cycled power and it worked for a while. I have it all apart, and BEFORE buying a new Display Board (71001799), I would like to get schematics and wiring so I can check power voltages on the four pin connector and do other trouble shooting? Can anyone supply a link or email a service manual or wiring for Jenn-Air SVE47600B? Thanks, Mike:) Mike@DogItDesign.com Mike, Sorry, can't accomodate you on the diagram or schematic, But I can tell you what checks to make at the ERC for no display. Part number: AP4088560
Turn power off to the range, Open the oven door, Remove 4 screws, along the bottom of the control panel, holding the panel to the front frame flange. Pull down and out on the complete panel, to remove the panel, (you can use an oven rack in the upper most position as a shelf, and set the panel on a towel). Disconnect the J1(4 wire) connector from the back of the ERC, Restore power to the range, *** Be careful, this is a live voltage test, there's a lot of 120 VAC wiring*** On the four wire connector, not the ERC, Pin#1 to Pin#2 you should read 12 Volts DC Pin#3 to Pin#4 you should read 20 Volts AC If you DO have these voltages, you will need the ERC/Clock. If you DO NOT have these voltages, you will need to check the J1 harness for damage and replace the relay board located on the back of the range, Part number: AP4008573
Yes, you are correct, brown outs and low voltage problems, do wreak havoc on electronic components of this range, as well as other products in the home. :) :) :)
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The "+12V" measures 15.1? I connected the PCB up to a lab supply and ran pin 2 up to 15 volts. The 5V on J2 read 5.3 and the board drew not measurable current on test. It looks like the 12 is not critical?
No Display now, even though on the range the AC is on pins 3-4?
Thanks,
Mike
12
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Originally Posted by: MotoDog The "+12V" measures 15.1? I connected the PCB up to a lab supply and ran pin 2 up to 15 volts. The 5V on J2 read 5.3 and the board drew not measurable current on test. It looks like the 12 is not critical?
No Display now, even though on the range the AC is on pins 3-4?
Thanks,
Mike
12 Mike, Sorry, but the 12 Volts DC across pins 1 and 2 on the J1 connector, is critical, That circuit is the power supply to the display circuit, that light up the LED's in the display circuit of the control board. You may want to re check your findings. :cool: :cool: :cool:
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goto Radfio shack and get a 100 micro Farad 50 or 100volt electrolytic axial lead cap. replace C3 on the display board and fire it back up. for $1.50 yer wife will think yer a god. I just did it. worked perfectly. c9driver@hotmail if you need more guidance to final. cheers- billy
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Originally Posted by: c9driver@hotmail.com goto Radfio shack and get a 100 micro Farad 50 or 100volt electrolytic axial lead cap. replace C3 on the display board and fire it back up. for $1.50 yer wife will think yer a god. I just did it. worked perfectly. c9driver@hotmail if you need more guidance to final. cheers- billy That may work, Provided the PRB, and the J1 harness are intact and feeding the 12 VDC and the 20 VAC to the display board. :) :) :)
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team That may work,
Provided the PRB, and the J1 harness are intact and feeding the 12 VDC and the 20 VAC to the display board.
:) :) :) sounds very technical Hefey, seems like most of the display boards are the same across models, so if the display board is the same, and going dim.... it should be C3. I researched this a bit and really just stumbled across the whole c3 thing. i thought i'd give it a shot and get some use out of my dusty degree and tools. maybe i over simplify things but in my world, easiest is best. B.B.'s are falling out of my ears at an alarming rate these dayz. good luck and all the best. b
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Originally Posted by: c9driver@hotmail.com sounds very technical Hefey,
seems like most of the display boards are the same across models, so if the display board is the same, and going dim.... it should be C3. I researched this a bit and really just stumbled across the whole c3 thing. i thought i'd give it a shot and get some use out of my dusty degree and tools. maybe i over simplify things but in my world, easiest is best. B.B.'s are falling out of my ears at an alarming rate these dayz.
good luck and all the best.
b C9, It's a more elaborate system than need be, It took J/A 10 or 15 years to simplify it. But it's a great unit and great range when it works, and usually simple to repair when you break it down to the simplest terms. As for BB's .... I'm waiting for a response for my application to the "CRC"(can't remember crap) Association.... Good Luck And Best to you as well, :) :) :)
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I want to thank this Forum.
I just repaired my oven for a $1.00 for a 100mf 50v Cap.
The display pcb was $181.00
71001799 C3 cap seems to have an Issue for the 12v supply.
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Originally Posted by: suchru10 I want to thank this Forum.
I just repaired my oven for a $1.00 for a 100mf 50v Cap.
The display pcb was $181.00
71001799 C3 cap seems to have an Issue for the 12v supply. Suchru, Great, Glad you were able to get your range up and running, and at such a nominal cost. You did a great job , I'm sure. :D :D :D
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