Dunwrkn,

Does the motor run and the tub spin, in the spin/drain cycle ?

Is there a pause(30 to 60 seconds) in the operation betwen the end of the agitate and the beginning of the spin/drain cycle ?

Since it agitates, I don't think you have a bad motor,

But, a bad lid switch, or timer could cause the symptoms, you're describing.

An easy check for the lid switch operation, slowly raise the lid, you should be able to hear a desticnt click noise when the lid is open an inch or so and a desticnt click when you close the lid. a bad switch would/could keep the washer from draining and spinning.

From there, you could have a bad contact in the timer assembly, not making contact to reverse the motor for the unit to spin and drain.

You may want to run a short cycle, and observe the operation, so we can get a better idea of what and when the problem actually occurs.


Thanks,
:) :) :)

Imdunwrkn,

Sure sounds like a bad lid switch, to me

Part number: AP3100003

Barb,

Yes, you can jump out the switch at the back wall panel connector( I use a single strand 8 or 10 guage awg wire 3 0r 4 inches in length).

Unplug the power cord, access the lid switch connector harness(after you partially remove the cabinet), install the jumper in the connector, make a spin drain selection, plug in the power cord and pull out the dial knob.

You can also circuit check the switch, with a multi meter,

The access procedure is the same, except, when you disconnect the switch wire harness, insert the multi meter probes in the connector from the switch, open the lid, no circuit(0 resistance) close the lid, a complete circuit(infinite resistance), I always check several times,

Either way you go, you'll be able to determine a bad lid switch,

Just be carefull with the "jump" procedure, you're dealing with "live" 120 VAC, and could get hurt.

:) :) :)

Barb,

There is no easy way to access the lid switch, but it is simple.

But here's the instructions,

Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the screw from　each side of the console.
Note: Depend on the model of the washer screws could be: 1) in the front of the console; 2) in the back of the console or 3) behind the end caps

2. Pull the console forward and up to remove the tabs on the bottom of the end caps, out of the holes in the top.

3. Lift the console up and lay it on its back.

4. Unplug the harness connector　for the lid switch.

5. Insert a flat screwdriver into the front edge of the clip (located on both sides), and pry back. Remove both clips from the holes in the cabinet and slide down the other end of the clips and out the slot in the rear panel.

6. Open and hold the lid while grabbing the cabinet front opening. Be sure when tilting the cabinet that the back edge clears the vacuum break.

7. Tilt the top of the cabinet toward you by pulling on the lid and opening of the cabinet. This releases the back slots of the cabinet from the tabs in the back of the base

8. Carefully pull the cabinet away from the base of the washer and set it aside.
Now you have access to most of the parts.　
I'm pretty sure your husband can handle it,

And here's the part number you need,

Part number: AP3094500

Barb,

"Honey" is correct, it is a safety device, and you could hurt yourself.
I'm not worried abot the agitation cycle, the spin cycle is more dangerous, That's why a lid switch, or lid lock is required to be in the machine.

Were it me, I'd order the switch as soon as possible, and "honey" can install it at his convenience,

But either way,

Thanks for the update,

Good Luck,

:) :) :)