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I have a Whirlpool Gold Model #GD5SHAXKB00 side by side refrigerator that has stopped cooling. I first noticed this afternoon that the food in the freezer was thawing and suspect that the refrigerator is warmer than normal. Both the condenser fan and the fan in the freezer compartment are still operating. The evaporator coil is not covered in frost so I don't think the issue is related to it. The compressor is hot to the touch and the white part on the left side of it makes a clicking noise when I plug in the refrigerator. This part appears to be the compressor starting device.
My question is - does the hot compressor indicate that it needs to be replaced or is it possible that I only need to replace the compressor starting device?
Thanks for any help you can provide.
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Originally Posted by: TRedVR6  I have a Whirlpool Gold Model #GD5SHAXKB00 side by side refrigerator that has stopped cooling. I first noticed this afternoon that the food in the freezer was thawing and suspect that the refrigerator is warmer than normal. Both the condenser fan and the fan in the freezer compartment are still operating. The evaporator coil is not covered in frost so I don't think the issue is related to it. The compressor is hot to the touch and the white part on the left side of it makes a clicking noise when I plug in the refrigerator. This part appears to be the compressor starting device.
My question is - does the hot compressor indicate that it needs to be replaced or is it possible that I only need to replace the compressor starting device?
Thanks for any help you can provide. TR, The hot compressor and the clicking noise indicate both a bad start device and or a bad compressor. Do you have a multi meter so you can check the compressor motor winding resistances ? You most likely have a weak overload or relay contact and should start there. Part number: AP3083556
Good Luck, :cool: :cool: :cool:
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Thanks Joe!
I do have a multimeter, but I'm not sure how to use it to check the motor winding resistances.
I pulled the start device and found that it made a rattling noise like something was broken inside it. Based on some of the other posts I read about similar issues, I ordered a new start device. I guess I could try the overload or relay contact if it doesn't work.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Originally Posted by: TRedVR6 Thanks Joe!
I do have a multimeter, but I'm not sure how to use it to check the motor winding resistances.
I pulled the start device and found that it made a rattling noise like something was broken inside it. Based on some of the other posts I read about similar issues, I ordered a new start device. I guess I could try the overload or relay contact if it doesn't work. TR, The rattling is a good indication of a bad start component, but you should test the compressor winding circuits as well, see the attached note below. If the compressor checks OK, install the complete kit, not just the overload. Good Luck, :) :) :) Test the compressor motor for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place one probe on any terminal and then touch the other probe to each of the other two terminals. The multitester should display a reading of zero ohmsNow move the first probe to a different terminal and test the other two terminals with the other probe. Finally, move the first probe to the last terminal and test each of the other terminals with the other probe. Every test should have continuity with the multitester displaying zero ohms. If the motor does not pass all of these tests, the compressor will require professional service. Now test the compressor for ground. With the multitester still set to X1, touch one probe to bare metal on the compressor housing (it may be necessary to scratch away a little paint to expose the metal). Touch the other probe to each of the three terminals in turn. None of the terminals should have continuity; the multitester should display a reading of infinity. If any of the grounding tests show continuity, the compressor require professional service.
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