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Joe / APP Team  
#21 Posted : Wednesday, December 29, 2010 5:23:36 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: danpan Go to Quoted Post
Glen,
Yes, on my JES9900BAS I used a 1/4 inch socket to take the 4 hex screws off. As Joe M mentioned, you need to open the oven door to be able to see the 4 screws. Take your time and you will most likely find it not to be a tough job.

Good luck,
Dan


Dan,

Thanks for the response to Glen,

I hope to hear from my friends at WP, today, I should have a response soon, hopefully,anyway.

:) :) :)
George Minasian  
#22 Posted : Wednesday, December 29, 2010 4:17:07 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
George,

We're dealing with a different animal.

Your range is a Slide in Range, and not quite as elaborate as the JES9900.

I'm going to take a guess, and suggest that it's the "hot surface" light staying on(up on the cooking area, not the control panel light) which would indicate a bad sensor on one of the burner element,most likely, or a shorted circuit in one of the burner switches.

Can you get me a better description of the problem, and get your hands on a multi meter, so we can get you up and working proper.

:) :) :)



Hi Joe, Hope you're enjoying the holidays. Thanks for your quick response. I've actually got 2 problems. Problem 1 is that the hot surface light stays on and problem 2 is the front/rear right side burner light stays on but the burner works fine. Is there a service manual available for this model and would you be willing to help me diagnose the problem? I have a multi-meter but am not a pro at using it. Thanks.

George
Joe / APP Team  
#23 Posted : Thursday, December 30, 2010 10:51:45 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: George Minasian Go to Quoted Post
Hi Joe, Hope you're enjoying the holidays. Thanks for your quick response. I've actually got 2 problems. Problem 1 is that the hot surface light stays on and problem 2 is the front/rear right side burner light stays on but the burner works fine. Is there a service manual available for this model and would you be willing to help me diagnose the problem? I have a multi-meter but am not a pro at using it. Thanks.

George


George,

Here are excerpts from the service manual, for accessing the components you need to check,

Removing and Replacing Range
1. Remove power from unit.


NOTE:
To avoid countertop damage, do not move


range forward until range has been raised
enough to clear all cabinetry.
2. Pull the range forward out of the cabinet opening.
3. Disconnect or unplug the power cord leading from
unit to fuse box or junction box depending on unit.
4. Replace the oven using the installation instructions
and anti-tip bracket(s).


Maintop Assembly
1. Remove power from unit.
2. Remove range from installation position, see
“Removing and Replacing Range” procedure.
3. Remove coil elements from installation position
(select models).
4. Open oven door and remove screws securing
maintop to oven chassis, located on the bottom of
control panel and along the outside edges of the
maintop.
5. Label and disconnect wiring to ribbon elements
(select models).
6. Gently remove ceran top (select models) and place in
safe area to prevent damage to top.
7. Remove porcelain maintop (select models).
8. Reverse procedure to reinstall maintop assembly.


Control Panel
1. Remove power from unit.
2. Open oven door and remove screws securing control
panel.
3. Remove screws located on the right and left sides of
the control panel.
4. Grasp control panel on the far left and right sides and
pull down.
NOTE:




Gently pull control panel out and down.
5. Reverse procedure to reinstall control panel.



Infinite Switch
1. Remove control panel, see "Control Panel"
procedure.
2. Label and disconnect wire terminals from infinite
switch.
3. Remove knob on infinite switch.
4. Remove screws in front securing infinite switch to
control panel.
5. Reverse procedure to reinstall infinite switch.
Indicator Lights
1. Remove control panel, see "Control Panel" procedure
for removal.
2. Label and disconnect wires from indicator light.
3. Squeeze the two tabs on the indicator light body and
gently pull to release from control panel.

4. Reverse procedure to reinstall indicator light

Now for the circuits to check :

For the hot surface light,

You'll need to check each burner sensor(box on side of each burner).
Terminals 1B across to 2B, should be an open circuit(0 resistance)when cool. Which ever burner has a closed circuit(infinite resistance 000)on the 1B to 2B terminals is the bad sensor and is the cause of the hot surface light to remain on.

The infinite switches, indicator lights,

Once you get the control panel down and access the back of the switches,

With the switches in the off position, you'll need to check for an open circuit(0 resistance) between the L1 terminal and the P terminal on each switch, which ever switch has a closed circuit(infinite resistance 000) across those terminals, is the cause for the indicator light being on.

Remember, you need to remove at least one wire off of one of the terminals, when testing to achieve an accurate test reading.

If all checks OK, you'll need to start looking for a shorted or damaged wire.

Good Luck,

:) :) :)




George Minasian  
#24 Posted : Friday, December 31, 2010 12:24:36 PM(UTC)
George Minasian

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Joined: 12/23/2010(UTC)
Posts: 8

Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
George,

Here are excerpts from the service manual, for accessing the components you need to check,

Removing and Replacing Range
1. Remove power from unit.


NOTE:
To avoid countertop damage, do not move


range forward until range has been raised

enough to clear all cabinetry.
2. Pull the range forward out of the cabinet opening.
3. Disconnect or unplug the power cord leading from
unit to fuse box or junction box depending on unit.
4. Replace the oven using the installation instructions
and anti-tip bracket(s).




Maintop Assembly

1. Remove power from unit.
2. Remove range from installation position, see
“Removing and Replacing Range” procedure.
3. Remove coil elements from installation position
(select models).
4. Open oven door and remove screws securing
maintop to oven chassis, located on the bottom of
control panel and along the outside edges of the
maintop.
5. Label and disconnect wiring to ribbon elements
(select models).
6. Gently remove ceran top (select models) and place in
safe area to prevent damage to top.
7. Remove porcelain maintop (select models).
8. Reverse procedure to reinstall maintop assembly.


Control Panel
1. Remove power from unit.
2. Open oven door and remove screws securing control
panel.
3. Remove screws located on the right and left sides of
the control panel.
4. Grasp control panel on the far left and right sides and
pull down.
NOTE:






Gently pull control panel out and down.
5. Reverse procedure to reinstall control panel.



Infinite Switch


1. Remove control panel, see "Control Panel"
procedure.
2. Label and disconnect wire terminals from infinite
switch.
3. Remove knob on infinite switch.
4. Remove screws in front securing infinite switch to
control panel.
5. Reverse procedure to reinstall infinite switch.
Indicator Lights
1. Remove control panel, see "Control Panel" procedure
for removal.
2. Label and disconnect wires from indicator light.
3. Squeeze the two tabs on the indicator light body and
gently pull to release from control panel.

4. Reverse procedure to reinstall indicator light

Now for the circuits to check :

For the hot surface light,

You'll need to check each burner sensor(box on side of each burner).
Terminals 1B across to 2B, should be an open circuit(0 resistance)when cool. Which ever burner has a closed circuit(infinite resistance 000)on the 1B to 2B terminals is the bad sensor and is the cause of the hot surface light to remain on.

The infinite switches, indicator lights,

Once you get the control panel down and access the back of the switches,

With the switches in the off position, you'll need to check for an open circuit(0 resistance) between the L1 terminal and the P terminal on each switch, which ever switch has a closed circuit(infinite resistance 000) across those terminals, is the cause for the indicator light being on.

Remember, you need to remove at least one wire off of one of the terminals, when testing to achieve an accurate test reading.

If all checks OK, you'll need to start looking for a shorted or damaged wire.

Good Luck,

:) :) :)









Hi Joe,

Happy New Year and thanks for the very useful information for testing the stovetop. I believe I found the culprit (bad switch) that's causing the indicator light to stay on and I'll order one to replace it. As for the hot surface light, I tested all of the sensor boxes attached to the burners. 1b to 2b gave me no continuity and the ohm readings were all 1. Do you think the indicator light is bad? Any suggestions. I will probably just buy a light along with the infinite switch. It can't cost much. Thanks a lot for all your help.

Regards,

George
Joe / APP Team  
#25 Posted : Monday, January 3, 2011 6:35:40 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: George Minasian Go to Quoted Post
Hi Joe,

Happy New Year and thanks for the very useful information for testing the stovetop. I believe I found the culprit (bad switch) that's causing the indicator light to stay on and I'll order one to replace it. As for the hot surface light, I tested all of the sensor boxes attached to the burners. 1b to 2b gave me no continuity and the ohm readings were all 1. Do you think the indicator light is bad? Any suggestions. I will probably just buy a light along with the infinite switch. It can't cost much. Thanks a lot for all your help.

Regards,

George



I don't think you'd have a bad hot surface light, it's on , so it works.

If all your sensor circuits are correct, sounds like it from your reply, you need to start looking for a shorted wire on the sensor circuit to chassis ground. We're completing a circuit some where in order to turn the light on.

The Way this works is;
You have 120 VAC on the wire to the 1B terminal, Tan wire,
You have 120 VAC on the wire to the 2B terminal, Black wire(s),
at the terminals on the sensor.

When the sensor circuit reaches temp. and closes, it causes the 240 VAC to travel to the hot surface light, and it illuminates, until the temperature cools down , the circuit opens and the light goes out.

Though, I have never had this problem, there is a possibility that your bad infinite switch, could be the culprit,

Replace the bad switch, if the light still remains on, you'll need to start looking for a shorted wire.

Let us know what you find.

Good Luck,

:) :) :)
rww0147  
#26 Posted : Monday, January 3, 2011 7:27:40 AM(UTC)
rww0147

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Posts: 1

Just want to let folks know that calling Jenn-Air @ 1-800-688-1100 might be a good idea, especially if you unit is fairly new. The RF burner on our JES9900BAS quit two days ago. I called JA, and they're sending out a service tech gratis to fix the problem. The warranty covers parts (but not labor) for 5 yrs, but the service rep said they would cover labor "as a courtesy," because our unit was only 19 mos. old. Must be a pretty common problem, just short of a general recall. Thought this information might be helpful.
rifa01  
#27 Posted : Wednesday, January 5, 2011 5:29:54 AM(UTC)
rifa01

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Posts: 3

I have had good luck with the Jenn air people when I have been trouble shooting my electric range.They are helpful and are great about sending out techs.
Joe / APP Team  
#28 Posted : Wednesday, January 5, 2011 6:06:38 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: rifa01 Go to Quoted Post
I have had good luck with the Jenn air people when I have been trouble shooting my electric range.They are helpful and are great about sending out techs.



Thanks for the information,

They used to be pretty good about assistance, apparently they decided to return to older policies.

They were pretty strick, a few years back.

Thanks again,

:cool: :cool: :cool:
rifa01  
#29 Posted : Thursday, January 6, 2011 7:48:20 AM(UTC)
rifa01

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Posts: 3

I actually called on a Thursday to get my electric range repaired and the tech was there before noon on Friday. Pretty good considereing it was around the holidays.
Joe / APP Team  
#30 Posted : Thursday, January 6, 2011 10:11:30 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: rifa01 Go to Quoted Post
I actually called on a Thursday to get my electric range repaired and the tech was there before noon on Friday. Pretty good considereing it was around the holidays.



Yes,

That's a very good thing,

:) :) :)
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