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I have had to manually defrost the freezer coil twice in the last 6 months
i have the service manual now so this time i checked out the the heater and did have continunity so i purchased a Adaptive Defrost control from your site I plan on installing it this Sunday before installing the new one i was going to check out the old control first i have a watt meter and the instructions show to jumper L1 and test terminals to put the frig into the defrost mode for 23 minutes my questions are is the jumper left on for the complete cycle or just a momentary contact and if the original control is bad how long do i wait to install the new one and shoud i retest after installation. Is ther anything else i should be looking at whise i have it apart in the event the defrost system does not activate even with the new control
Thanks Ron
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I did find one post which said you have to short them together for about 3 seconds, should hear a click and then it will stay in the defrost cycle.
If you can force a defrost and the heater comes on then probably all you need is the defrost board.
If it does not come on then you may want to check the defrost thermostat, clipped to the evaporator coils. Should be 0 ohms when frozen.
Note it opens just above freezing.
Also the defrost heater is usually around 20 ohms.
Note that if the heater does not come on, it does not totally rule out the board as the cause of your problem but if the defrost heater and defrost thermostat check out OK then all that is left is a bad wire or the defrost board. |
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Originally Posted by: denman  I did find one post which said you have to short them together for about 3 seconds, should hear a click and then it will stay in the defrost cycle.
If you can force a defrost and the heater comes on then probably all you need is the defrost board.
If it does not come on then you may want to check the defrost thermostat, clipped to the evaporator coils. Should be 0 ohms when frozen.
Note it opens just above freezing.
Also the defrost heater is usually around 20 ohms.
Note that if the heater does not come on, it does not totally rule out the board as the cause of your problem but if the defrost heater and defrost thermostat check out OK then all that is left is a bad wire or the defrost board. denman thanks for the info on my frige last week when i manually defrosted the evaoirator i did check the defrost thermostat before i removed the ice it did function normally and the heater checked out fine today i got into the temperature control housing i jumpered the L1 and test terminals and nothing happened i did this several times the compressor was running and nothing , i installed the new ADC that i received friday from your store and installed it and repeated the test ,still nothing checked the wiring and did not find anything wrong, the only thing that concerened me was that the new ADC that was shipped to me appears to be different than the old one they are both the same size boards the new one does no have a test terminal that connection says door on the board and the old one has about twice the number of capasitors then the new one the old one say SIEBE APPLIANCE CONTROL and these part numbers on the back 9-399-3 CB and a reversed RU cpc-e 94 vo. I put the old one back in and wait to hear from you i put a thermometer in the fridge side so i could tell when the evaporater is icing up its normal temp at 6am is about 40 degrees the morning i found out that it was iced up the temp was 55 degrees at 6 am thanks for your help ron madbchgalry@aol.com
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[COLOR="Blue"]from your store[/COLOR] Not my store also I do not work for AppliancePartsPros. I just volunteer here and try to help a few people out. I cannot be of much help when it comes to manufacturing numbers. That the boards were a little different would not worry me as manufacturers often update the boards. Why the new board did not go into defrost is a puzzle. Did you hear any clicking on it? This would be the relay actuating. Here are your parts, includes a wiring diagram Replacement parts for MAYTAG MSD2756GEQ Ref - SXS/I&W | AppliancePartsPros.comCheck that you are getting power to the board. [COLOR="Blue"] in the fridge side so i could tell when the evaporater is icing up its normal temp at 6am is about 40 degrees the morning i found out that it was iced up the temp was 55 degrees at 6 am[/COLOR] Sorry but I do not understand the above. |
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I was not blaming you for the problem in referenceing the your store i just wanted to clarify that i was using parts from parts pros and not wasting your time with some one elses parts
when i jumpered either frost control there was no click and the compressor
just kept running and there was no change in watt usage am i correct in assuming that the compressor shut off during the defrost cycle
i did not check the actual connectors on the frost control when it was out of the control panel the compressor would not run i tried it once so i assume that it is getting power to activate the compressor
in the fridge side so i could tell when the evaporater is icing up its normal temp at 6am is about 40 degrees the morning i found out that it was iced up the temp was 55 degrees at 6 am
Sorry but I do not understand the above.
what i ment by this was that it takes several weeks for the evaporator to freeze up solid enough to not allow enough cold air flow to maintain the necessary low temp in the refigerator side and when that happens the temperature rises and when the door is not opened from 9pm until 6am
and the temp on that side of the box is 55 degrees or higher i know that the evaporator is frozen solid.
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[COLOR="Blue"]I was not blaming you for the problem in referenceing the your store i just wanted to clarify that i was using parts from parts pros and not wasting your time with some one elses parts[/COLOR] I did not take it that you were blaming me, sorry if it came out sounding defensive. This is an open forum hosted by AppliancePartsPros as a public service and it does not matter where you get the part [COLOR="Blue"]when i jumpered either frost control there was no click and the compressor just kept running and there was no change in watt usage am i correct in assuming that the compressor shut off during the defrost cycle[/COLOR] Yes the compressor, the condenser fan and the evaporator fan should all turn off when you go into defrost. Since there was no click I am leaning towards the board not getting voltage (could be a bad wire or connection) or it is defective [COLOR="Blue"] what i ment by this was that it takes several weeks for the evaporator to freeze up solid enough to not allow enough cold air flow to maintain the necessary low temp in the refigerator side and when that happens the temperature rises and when the door is not opened from 9pm until 6am and the temp on that side of the box is 55 degrees or higher i know that the evaporator is frozen solid.[/COLOR] Yes that would definitely point to the defrost problem. It shows up first in the fresh food side and then later in the freezer. The iced up evaporator coil messes up the air circulation in the unit and it cannot blow cold air into the fresh food side. The time it takes to ice up varies greatly on the ambient air humidity and the number of times the doors are opened. The following may be helpful. 16010154 Maytag Refrigerator Service Manual - ApplianceDigest.com You may have to join the site to download the manual but it is free and a good site for appliance info. |
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thanks for the reply
i downloaded the service manual last week and thats what led me to order the new defrost control I will go back into the evaporator section this week
and re check the wiring that runs to the control panel from the freezer to see if some thing is not getting to where it is supposed to
i will send you a note when and if i find out what's going on
thanks for you help
ron
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DENMAN Still working on frige had to manually defrost today removed the heater and thermostat from the freezer to recheck Bench tested both checked out put the thermostat in the freezer when it froze it closed and opened when warmed up i checked the plug that supplys the power to the heater while the heater and stat werer disconnected and i inserted a diagram of what i found when the frig is pluged in and compressor off the yellow had 110 volt the black and white had 25 volts and the purple had 0 volts after turning the compressor on the only change was the purple wire now had 110 volts i do remember that ehere was a black white wir on the ADC Control if you have any suggestions i would appreciate your comments thanks ron
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