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everything I have read about this code does not help. There is no exposed heating element terminal to test and I can't find a manual for this model to explain where the solenoid connecter is on the CCU. I would like to be able to test before replacing parts at random. please help.
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Originally Posted by: pandoraspretties  everything I have read about this code does not help. There is no exposed heating element terminal to test and I can't find a manual for this model to explain where the solenoid connecter is on the CCU. I would like to be able to test before replacing parts at random. please help. Pandora, Your thermistor is located on the bottom portion, in the center of the outer tub, you'll need to remove the lower access panel on the front of the machine to access it. Part number: AP3128829
You'll need to check the condition of the wires and thermistor connections for corrosion. The wires from the thermistor run back to the main control board and attach to the TH2 connector. At room temperature the resistance should be approximately 7.5 ohms resistance, at 100 degrees it should be approximately 6.5 ohms resistance, and at 120 degrees it should be 4.5 ohms resistance. If all checks OK, you'll need the main control assembly Part number: AP3881123
Good Luck, :) :) :)
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so are you talking about the resistance on the lower thermistor terminal, which I already tested, or the connection on the CCU? I did find a manual for free online and printed it off to give me a visual on the CCU connectors. If the solenoid is bad you are saying I have to replace the whole CCU? Isn't there a just a part inside that I replace? everything else works fine. If I use the rinse/spin cycle it runs fine. It is when I try to use the other cycles that the problem arises. It pumps hot water into the tub and sets off the error code, no matter what temp setting I use.
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Originally Posted by: pandoraspretties so are you talking about the resistance on the lower thermistor terminal, which I already tested, or the connection on the CCU? I did find a manual for free online and printed it off to give me a visual on the CCU connectors. If the solenoid is bad you are saying I have to replace the whole CCU? Isn't there a just a part inside that I replace? everything else works fine. If I use the rinse/spin cycle it runs fine. It is when I try to use the other cycles that the problem arises. It pumps hot water into the tub and sets off the error code, no matter what temp setting I use. Pandora, I personnally check both. A) Thermistor on the tub, with the harness disconnected. B) Then re connect the harness and test the resistance on the two wire connector at the TH2 connector on the CCU. The resistance should be the same on both tests. If they are Not, That would indicate a problem in the wire harness, and it would need to be repaired / Replaced. If they are, that would indicate a loose or bad connection, on/in the CCU, and it will need to be replaced. These are the only parts used in the temperature sensing circuit (thermistor, harness, and CCU). and the CCU is a "one piece" part, and replaced as a complete unit. ( In short, it's the computer, or "main brain", that controls your washer). I don't understand "solenoid", there is no solenoid involved in the thermistor circuit itself. The thermistor tells the CCU what the water temperature is (based on resistance) The CCU, activates the hot or cold fill valve solenoid(s) based on the input, to achieve the water temperature selected for the cycle chosen. I hope this helps you, better understand the system. :cool: :cool: :cool:
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where is the ccu and how can I get to it on the duet
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Originally Posted by: maxepr where is the ccu and how can I get to it on the duet Max, You first have to unplug the power cord, remove the top of the machine( 3 screws on the back panel) slide the top back approximately 3/4 to 1 inch, to un clip the locking tabs,and lift off. The CCU (on your unit) should be mounted on the rear wall of the cabinet frame( small white box, with all the wires / connectors attached to it). The connection label is embossed in the plastic body, remember you're looking for a 2 wire connection and it should be labeled TH2 on the control box. Good Luck, :cool: :cool: :cool:
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This thread has been very helpful. I am also showing a F05 code. I took the heating element to an appliance repair shop and he said it tested ok so I bought a sensor. The resistance of the the element (at about 60 degrees) is 15.5 (with sensor plugged in and unplugged). The resistance of the sensor is 19.21. When I do a load with warm water after it fills with warm water the F05 code shows and the resistance of the sensor drops to 6.58. I am praying I don't have a bad CCU but after seeing the resistance change, I have to think the CCU is not "seeing" the resistance change in the sensor, which has to be bad :(
Thanks for any help you can lend.
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Originally Posted by: sabresfan This thread has been very helpful. I am also showing a F05 code. I took the heating element to an appliance repair shop and he said it tested ok so I bought a sensor. The resistance of the the element (at about 60 degrees) is 15.5 (with sensor plugged in and unplugged). The resistance of the sensor is 19.21. When I do a load with warm water after it fills with warm water the F05 code shows and the resistance of the sensor drops to 6.58. I am praying I don't have a bad CCU but after seeing the resistance change, I have to think the CCU is not "seeing" the resistance change in the sensor, which has to be bad :(
Thanks for any help you can lend. Sabrefan, Re check the wiring connections at the thermistor, and the CCU. Make sure you have a good tight connection at both connections, make sure there's no corrosion, debris,etc on the wires (especially at the thermistor), before you replace the CCU. Thanks and Good Luck :) :) :)
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I did that. the inside is remarkably clean considering its gotta be 10 years old. All connections seem good and tight, no corrosion, at least at the element, sensor and CCU. Is there anything else at all I can test with a multimeter? is there a "relay" hidden in the somewhere? Did the original diagostics I posted all look normal?
I appreciate the help and quick response!
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Originally Posted by: sabresfan I did that. the inside is remarkably clean considering its gotta be 10 years old. All connections seem good and tight, no corrosion, at least at the element, sensor and CCU. Is there anything else at all I can test with a multimeter? is there a "relay" hidden in the somewhere? Did the original diagostics I posted all look normal?
I appreciate the help and quick response! Sabrefan, No, theres no "hidden" relay, in the circuit. This is a resistance circuit, as the resistance changes, The circuit in the CCU determines which fill valve to activate and deactivate. As long as your water temperature at the faucet are in range(extremely hot or cold water can create an issue) , the hoses aren't crossed, and you have plenty of water pressure. based on your post everything is OK, and you're going to need the CCU. :) :) :)
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