Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/11/2010(UTC) Posts: 2
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I have been trying to troubleshoot my dryer for a few days now. First, there was no heat. Checked the fuses and the High Limit fuse was bad. Replaced it, and now everything works great except it seems to get way too hot. I cleaned everything and still no change. Does anyone have the procedure for testing the thermostat? I checked for continuity, and it was fine between the red and yellow lead, but nothing between the blue and white. I also tested the element for grounding (good there), and the ohm reading is 11.6 ohms, which I think is about right, and the other two fuses ring out ok. Any help with this would be great!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 8/16/2007(UTC) Posts: 3,273
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On the cycling thermostat, the smaller terminals correspond to an internal heater element (rated at 2 Watts). If you get no continuity across those contacts, replace that thermostat. When you test for continuity of any component, disconnect at least one of the wires from that component, so that there's no chance of a false reading from the system the component is attached to. Part number: AP4039476
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/11/2010(UTC) Posts: 2
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Originally Posted by: magician59  On the cycling thermostat, the smaller terminals correspond to an internal heater element (rated at 2 Watts). If you get no continuity across those contacts, replace that thermostat. When you test for continuity of any component, disconnect at least one of the wires from that component, so that there's no chance of a false reading from the system the component is attached to. Part number: AP4039476
Great, Thanks for the quick response! I re-verfied my checks, and I show open across the 2 Watt element. Looks like I am off to order the part! Thanks again.
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