Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/9/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
Of course, I'm having similar problems. Unit is a KitchenAid KSRW25CRSS01 side-by-side, and at least by all visual appearances the icemaker is the AP3182733.
I've been through many of the troubleshooting steps. The optical sensor LED codes seem to indicate everything's okay there.
I've checked the voltage across L & N and get nothing. Disconnecting the harness and checking the voltage on the freezer side gives me just under 100 volts. I've checked the resistance across the two check points (heater - L to H and motor - L to M) on the checklist I conveniently found underneath the refrigerator, and the heater gives me the specified resistance (51 ohms, 52 measured), while the motor gives me about half the specified (4300 ohms vs. 8800).
Bad icemaker?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: Jrt_ms1995  Of course, I'm having similar problems. Unit is a KitchenAid KSRW25CRSS01 side-by-side, and at least by all visual appearances the icemaker is the AP3182733.
I've been through many of the troubleshooting steps. The optical sensor LED codes seem to indicate everything's okay there.
I've checked the voltage across L & N and get nothing. Disconnecting the harness and checking the voltage on the freezer side gives me just under 100 volts. I've checked the resistance across the two check points (heater - L to H and motor - L to M) on the checklist I conveniently found underneath the refrigerator, and the heater gives me the specified resistance (51 ohms, 52 measured), while the motor gives me about half the specified (4300 ohms vs. 8800).
Bad icemaker? What is the serial number of the refrigerator? Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/9/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
Sorry, I don't have it handy; it's actually in a vacant neighbor's house my wife is selling. The icemaker is one of the few things needing to be fixed before closing. Originally Posted by: Gene What is the serial number of the refrigerator?
Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: Jrt_ms1995 Sorry, I don't have it handy; it's actually in a vacant neighbor's house my wife is selling. The icemaker is one of the few things needing to be fixed before closing. Very likely the problem is a bad ice maker, but there is the diagnosis test to make sure exactly what is wrong. The test procedures are different depending on the age of the refrigerator which can be found by the serial number. You can try to replace the ice maker first to see if it'll fix the problem. If it would not and you'll order it from Appliance Parts Pros, you can return it even if it was installed. The ice maker Part number: AP3182733
you posted is correct. Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/12/2010(UTC)
Posts: 2
|
Gene if you are there i have a problem with a GE GSS25TSR side by side. Freezer melted everything 2 days ago and now wont go above 24 degrees. the crisper drawer is frozen as well as the water in the door line.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/9/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
New icemaker arrived today, and after installation the problem is solved. One minor difficulty with the new one is the height of what I'll call the receiver cup, where the water line dispenses into the icemaker. On the new icemaker this cup is about twice the height of the one on the original icemaker. With some careful deflecting of the dispenser nozzle, however, I was able to get the icemaker in place. I thought trying to work the nozzle in by flexing it preferable to cutting it off shorter (and possibly finding out later that that was a problem), or pulling apart the old and new icemakers and replacing the new cup with the old one. Anyway, it had made some ice cubes within an hour of me finishing the installation. Thanks, everyone. Originally Posted by: Gene Very likely the problem is a bad ice maker, but there is the diagnosis test to make sure exactly what is wrong. The test procedures are different depending on the age of the refrigerator which can be found by the serial number. You can try to replace the ice maker first to see if it'll fix the problem. If it would not and you'll order it from Appliance Parts Pros, you can return it even if it was installed. The ice maker Part number: AP3182733
you posted is correct. Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
You are welcome. We are glad you were able to fix it.
Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/3/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1
|
I ran the insulated wire just like you mentioned in the post below but there was no movement in the ice maker. Can I assume this thing needs replacing? Originally Posted by: Gene Pull the ice maker out but do not unplug the wire harness. Remove the ice maker head cover and check for 120VAC between "N" & "L" test points. Make sure the test probes are 1/2" in. If there is 120VAC then using an insulated piece of wire (14 GA), short points "T" & "H" to run the motor. Leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution and remove it. The water valve should be energized in the last half of the revolution. Post the results.
Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: KGibadlo I ran the insulated wire just like you mentioned in the post below but there was no movement in the ice maker. Can I assume this thing needs replacing? What is the complete model number of the refrigerator? Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/2/2013(UTC)
Posts: 1
|
I have a similar problem with a Kitchenaid KSCS23INSS00 Manufactured 11-04. The refrigerator was part of the home we purchased recently. The icemaker hasn't worked since day 1. I have looked into the forum, and I am looking for a concise way to diagnose:
1) Electrical measurements for the circuits at the light sensor and transmitter
2) Electrical measurements for the circuits at the Ice Maker itself
3) Some circuit diagram that shows how the two work together
4) Are there any other dependencies in the ice maker system, or is it just the items listed in 1-3?
Next bit of info, the light sensor is for sure bad on my fridge, based on the flashing light codes and diagnosis I've read on the thread. I'm afraid the icemaker is also bad, based on using the shorting techniques on the Icemaker controller (Shorting L to V with the Icemaker still plugged into the harness).
Additionally, I'm curious to hear what the thoughts are on replacing an icemaker on a 10 year old fridge. Would the experts on this forum suggest spending the money on a new fridge instead? I'm asking this, because I've had two of my most recent fridges last about 12 years after their compressors have gone bad. I don't want to throw good money after bad, but want to have a fridge that can actually make ice.
I appreciate your insight.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
