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Hi, basically, my freezer is fine but the fridge is too warm. So, I'm following the steps in the sticky. I got up to the step about testing the defrost controller. Now that I know about it, I've been watching it and I see that it is turning. Does that mean it works?
Also, I get a puddle of water inside the bottom of the fridge. I use a sponge to soak it up whenever I see water spill over to the floor. Thanks.
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Steve, Originally Posted by: Gene  ...As the evaporator coil cools down, the frost builds up on the coil.
If it does not defrost periodically then the excess frost will block the air flow though the cooling coil, affecting proper distribution of the cold air and causing an increase in the temperature (the fresh food compartment first)... This is the most important part of the article on the first page which should point you in the right direction. Have you seen such frost build up? If you have not, then there is nothing wrong with defrost and the problem is somewhere else. Quote:...I get a puddle of water inside the bottom of the fridge... Looks like the drain (#226 & #315 on the diagram) is clogged and/or frosted and it can affect the cold air distribution. Remove the back cover in the freezer and check the drain. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene Hey Gene, Thanks! I followed the instructions on page 3 and the Ohm that I was supposed to check was over 22, so I guess I would have to change the control board. I just have two more questions: 1. Why is it that on the refridgerator side (right), the top is warm but the bottom is frozen everytime my fridge screws up? 2. And I was thinking of also changing the defrost thermistors as you have recommended to change along with the control board. I have located two in the diagram but can you help me check to make sure I got the right parts? What I have is #240 part #AP3884317 and #AP3884325, is that correct? Thanks again!
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Originally Posted by: abcblah Hey Gene,
Thanks! I followed the instructions on page 3 and the Ohm that I was supposed to check was over 22, so I guess I would have to change the control board.
I just have two more questions:
1. Why is it that on the refridgerator side (right), the top is warm but the bottom is frozen everytime my fridge screws up?
2. And I was thinking of also changing the defrost thermistors as you have recommended to change along with the control board. I have located two in the diagram but can you help me check to make sure I got the right parts? What I have is #240 part #AP3884317 and #AP3884325, is that correct?
Thanks again! 1. One of the possible cause is a bad control board. So the new control board can fix it too. 2. The part numbers you posted are incorrect. The thermistors are shown as #233 and #241. They are identical and Part number: AP3185407
Gene.
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OK, Gene. Thanks for your help. Here's what I've done so far. I checked the coil, which I believe is part #726 (low side assembly) on page 6 of the diagram. It's got a little ice, definitely not a lot. It's all wet inside though. I had shut off the fridge for about 30 minutes with the door closed before trying to work on it. Is that why it's all wet?
How do I get to the drain? I see it on the diagram, but I can't find it in the fridge. Is it behind the coil or underneath it? Do I get to it from the fresh food section? Thank you.
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Hi everyone Im new here & just skimming thru was tryin to check contunity on my defrost heater .
But first i have a GE side by side refrig Model GSL22JFPCBS not cooling in the food side . Last night i took the back off the freezer side coils were froze solid . I defrosted with a hair dryer . Found a post about this with a different model & wanted to check the defrost heater & thermostat but the plugs arent the same & am not sure which to unplug & check . WAs wondering which plug to unplug & which wires to check & how .
Thanks Drew
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Originally Posted by: DrewBat Hi everyone Im new here & just skimming thru was tryin to check contunity on my defrost heater .
But first i have a GE side by side refrig Model GSL22JFPCBS not cooling in the food side . Last night i took the back off the freezer side coils were froze solid . I defrosted with a hair dryer . Found a post about this with a different model & wanted to check the defrost heater & thermostat but the plugs arent the same & am not sure which to unplug & check . WAs wondering which plug to unplug & which wires to check & how .
Thanks Drew Ok after getting my head outta my butt LOL :D !!!! I figured out what i was doing was wrong lol Imagine that :rolleyes: . I found J9 & J7 connectors & done a continuity test, circuit is open . Now i guess i have to do the heater & thermostat to see if they are open & replace all that is open right ?
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Originally Posted by: stevewong10 ...I had shut off the fridge for about 30 minutes with the door closed before trying to work on it. Is that why it's all wet?... Steve, Doing that you broke the picture. The evaporator coils have to be checked on the refrigerator being working for at least 24 hours. You can turn it off for your safety (make sure the compressor was running at that time) but you have to start the test immediately after you did it. Redo this test and post the results. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: DrewBat Ok after getting my head outta my butt LOL :D !!!! I figured out what i was doing was wrong lol Imagine that :rolleyes: . I found J9 & J7 connectors & done a continuity test, circuit is open . Now i guess i have to do the heater & thermostat to see if they are open & replace all that is open right ? You are on the right track. Proceed with the test and post the results. Here are the breakdown diagrams and Freezer section replacement parts for General Electric GSL22JFPCBS Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.comGene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene turns out it was the heater . Now does the place here that sells parts have the connectors to splice the wires & make them water proof ?
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