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I am in the process of replacing a dryer belt on a 29" Whirlpool dryer. The diagram is very helpful, but I do have a question about the idler pulley. Is the idler pulley supposed to lock down into the bottom of the machine, or is the front lip on the bottom just supposed to go into the bottom of the machine and then tension on the belt keeps the pulley in place? The model of dryer I am working on is an LG5811XP, if that makes any difference. Thanks very much for your help.

I would guess you have found the answer by now, but for future references...



Yes the tension on the belt keeps the pulley in place.

Thank you so much for posting those diagrams! My husband has been working on extracting some noise makers that were sent down the lint trap chute. The last time I saw the collection, there were 8 sockets from a socket set! We have some interesting children... I guess he took the belt off the drum. While he was extracting those pieces, a penny dropped into the motor. He must have taken that out too. Poor guy! After disconnecting everything, he had that dryer upside and sideways, and if it were possible, he would have had it inside-out!

Maybe now I can get back to my laundry...

Thank you for having these diagrams all in one place! Now I have to determine is who made my 1988 Kenmore Gas Dryer!

I just finished installing a new heating element restring kit in an older GE electric dryer and a new rear tub support bearing kit. For those of you who are going to attempt this repair it is suggested you take a couple of pictures or make a very good diagram of the layout of the parts before starting. The restring kit takes a lot of patience to install. The rear bearing kit almost takes two people to do it as the screws for the inner part of the kit go in from the tub open end while the bearing stub must be held in place from the opposite side. Unless you have very long arms it is almost impossible to do this by yourself. Also to remove some of the screws from the old parts during teardown I used a hand held impact driver as the Phillips head screws are often seized up from long years of heat. Also be very carefull about the length of the screws furnished with the kits. Some are longer and will interfere with the rotating part of the drum when reassembled. The front bearing support is really not a bearing but more of a plastic support part for the 4 slipper strips . If the slipper/glide strips are worn out the support part is also worn quite a bit but installation of these can usually be done using some JB epoxy but it must cure for several hours before using the part. Lastly the belt installtion can be a bear since it has to be done w/o being able to see it well. Wear a long sleeve shirt to keep from cutting your arms while putiing it back on the motor and idler pulleys. Now go have a beer !