Dillybob,

We still have something mis wired or crossed,

Do you have the wiring diagram / schematic that came with your cooktop ?

Did you remove or disconnect any wires at the other infinite switches or elements ?

I need you to go through and check and make sure the switches are wired according to the wiring diagram. (dual black on L1 and dual red on L2 etc.)

Then we can get this new switch properly wired and operating.

:cool: :cool: :cool:

Bob,

Now I know were we went wrong(I think ??).

First,

Re connect the two Black wires together, so they are piggybacked, (like originally) and install them on the other P1 terminal on the new switch.

Second,

Separate the dual(piggybacked) Red wires.

Determine which Red wire is routed back to the power junction box, and install it on the P2 terminal on the new switch.

The remaining Red wire, should "daisy chain" to the remaining switches on the L2 terminal, and should be attached to terminal 2 on the new switch.

Here's how it should look after you're re wired and installed :

P1 = Two connections " piggybacked" (dual black), and jumper to S2
terminal.

4a = Purple wire to outer element on burner.

4 = Blue wire to inner element on burner.

S2 = Orange wire to indicator light.

S1 = Other end of jumper wire from P1.

P2 = Red wire to power junction box.

2 = Red wire to other switches(daisy chained).

With the piggybacked Black wires separated, you were "back feeding" L1 to the switch, from the sensor,through the indicator light.

That's why it was only on high when the element was on.

Now that I know how you had it wired, you should not have damaged either one of the switches you installed (keep one as a back up).

Let us know what happens,

:cool: :cool: :cool:

I have the Jennair wiring diagram 209534A that came with the cooktop. If you can't find a copy I can scan and email you tomorrow if you need it.
Bob

I saw the schematic you have...It's the same, except mine has a text box on the bottom that reads: "NOTE THERE IS A RESISTANCE HEATER IN ALL INFINITE CONTROLS IN SERIES WITH H1 & H2. EXCEPT LEFT REAR (the one we are working on) WHERE THE TESISTANCE HEATER IS IN SERIES WITH L1 AND N. SEE REVERSE SIDE FOR DETAILS.
quote=Joe / APP Team;282724]Bob,

I'm almost lost, now.

Yes, send me a copy of your schematic, I doubt if theres a difference, but let's see.

I'm guessing we're going to have to start from the beginning and work our way out of this mess.


So be ready for some things and checks that may not make sense to you.


:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

Joe,
I took apart the old switch and fixed it. Wired it back according to the wiring instruction sheet and it works. I feel silly that I didn't try that before I ordered new switches and took all this time (yours/mine). I still don't know why the new switch wouldn't work for me, but I guess now I don't care. I sure hope it doesn't break. thanks for your help.

Bob,

My schematic apparently is the same as yours(mine has the same notes as yours' as well).

Let's try this:

Since the new switch is # 1 in the switch harness,and it sort of works,

RECHECK the splices and terminals that you made in the beginning on the piggybacked Black and Red wires at the new switch.


***Be CAREFUL this is a live 240 volt test at the switches and wiring.***

*** You'll need to turn power off and on between checks ***

1) With power on and access to the switch wires, check from P1 terminal to p2 terminal for 240 VAC .

2) Then turn the switch on and see if you have the same voltage on the same terminals.

3) Now,remove and check each Red wire on the new switch to chassis ground for 120 VAC (only one red wire should have 120 VAC on it at this time).

The red wire with 120 VAC should go on terminal P2 on the new switch , the other should go on terminal 2. (if wiring needs to be switched).

4) Recheck for 240 VAC at terminal P1 and P2, with the switch on.

5) Now check for 120 VAC at L1 (Black) to chassis ground on all the other
switches

6) Now check for 120 VAC at L2 (Red) to chassis ground on all the other
switches.

7) Now Check for 240 VAC from L1 to L2 on all the other switches.

Let us know what you get, and what, if any repairs, you had to make.

:cool: :cool: :cool: :cool: