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Originally Posted by: margs  I checked the all the wiring in the control panel with my meter and everything seems okay.
The wires at the light switch...starts with 1 white wire that leads to the component, then white wire and a pink wire on other side. So, from the side with both the pink and the white wire...I took off the white wire and tested it and got a good reading, and put it back on. Took the pink wire off and tested it but got nothing.
I think the pink wire leads to the cylinder light, but the light bulb doesn't work either. It failed along with the rest of the unit. So far, that was the only wire that gave no reading at all.
Did I do the test right? If so, could that pink wire cause this problem? Margs, Did you activate and de-activate the door switch ? With the door closed or the switch button pressed in, you should read a closed circuit from white to white, and an open circuit white to pink . With the door open, or the switch button out, you should read a closed circuit between white and pink.and an open circuit white to white. If you have a bad door switch, or open thermo fuse, that would keep the dryer from starting , and could explain why the drum light won't work(unless you're sure it burnt out before the start problem occurred). From here , we start doing timer circuit and live voltage checks and jumps on components, until we get this thing to run. Later, :cool: :cool: :cool:
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With the door closed, white on white gave a reading 3/4 the way across. White on red wire did nothing at all. The bulb was not burnt out prior to this problem. It went out when unit shut down, and I can't tell by looking at the bulb if its burnt. Can I test the bulb or component?
One other thing, the thermal fuse has 2 red wire (1 per side), each lead to a white component (fuse??), Then looks like raw wires that lead to coils. My question is how do I test that? Do I need to unscrew it and take it out or just pull one side of the red wire out?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Originally Posted by: margs With the door closed, white on white gave a reading 3/4 the way across. White on red wire did nothing at all. The bulb was not burnt out prior to this problem. It went out when unit shut down, and I can't tell by looking at the bulb if its burnt. Can I test the bulb or component?
One other thing, the thermal fuse has 2 red wire (1 per side), each lead to a white component (fuse??), Then looks like raw wires that lead to coils. My question is how do I test that? Do I need to unscrew it and take it out or just pull one side of the red wire out? Margs, Sure sounds like a bad door switch, Part number: AP4242466
With the door closed the needle should have swung all the way over to the right on the white to white test. And the same results(needle all the way to the right) white to red with the door open. Yes, you can test the drum light filament, Remove the light bulb(push down slightly and twist 1/2 way to the left and bulb tabs will release from bulb holder, and lift out. On the bottom of the brass bulb fitting, you'll see two gray colored dots, Put your meter leads on the dots and you should get a closed circuit(needle all the way to the right) if the bulb is good. Yes, you are correct in the way you want to test the fuse and thermostat(s), remove one wire from the component and check for a circuit across the two terminal, then re connect the wire and move on to the component. The large white ceramic piece with the two bare wires, is NOT the fuse, It is the insulator for the heater element, and you can also test that for a circuit as well. Just like the other components, remove the red wire, test for a closed circuit across the two terminals, then each terminal to the metal case for an open circuit(needle should not move), if you read a circuit from the terminal the the metal case, you've got a shorted element, But I don't think you'll find a shorted element, it has little or nothing to do with your no start problem. Keep in touch, :) :) :)
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Margs, Sure sounds like a bad door switch, Part number: AP4242466
With the door closed the needle should have swung all the way over to the right on the white to white test. And the same results(needle all the way to the right) white to red with the door open. Yes, you can test the drum light filament, Remove the light bulb(push down slightly and twist 1/2 way to the left and bulb tabs will release from bulb holder, and lift out. On the bottom of the brass bulb fitting, you'll see two gray colored dots, Put your meter leads on the dots and you should get a closed circuit(needle all the way to the right) if the bulb is good. Yes, you are correct in the way you want to test the fuse and thermostat(s), remove one wire from the component and check for a circuit across the two terminal, then re connect the wire and move on to the component. The large white ceramic piece with the two bare wires, is NOT the fuse, It is the insulator for the heater element, and you can also test that for a circuit as well. Just like the other components, remove the red wire, test for a closed circuit across the two terminals, then each terminal to the metal case for an open circuit(needle should not move), if you read a circuit from the terminal the the metal case, you've got a shorted element, But I don't think you'll find a shorted element, it has little or nothing to do with your no start problem. Keep in touch, :) :) :) I didn't open the door before testing the red on white...but, now it tests fine. So terminal block, outlet, and door switch, are all good. Thermostat above heating coils...2 red wires (1 on each side)...took of one wire and got reading...put wire back on. Removed other wire, and tested across, and got reading...took both wires off and got reading across the terminal. Is that right? Or, should I be touching the bottom and top part or the component? Wires on or off? I'm confused...I shouldn't get any reading, in other words, no movement on the dial? This is very frustrating.
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Originally Posted by: margs I didn't open the door before testing the red on white...but, now it tests fine. So terminal block, outlet, and door switch, are all good.
Thermostat above heating coils...2 red wires (1 on each side)...took of one wire and got reading...put wire back on. Removed other wire, and tested across, and got reading...took both wires off and got reading across the terminal. Is that right? Or, should I be touching the bottom and top part or the component? Wires on or off? I'm confused...I shouldn't get any reading, in other words, no movement on the dial? This is very frustrating. Margs, Everythings fine, Maybe I'm giving you too much info at one time... You're doing fine, OK, Now we know that your hi limit thermostat is OK, as well. On the heater housing, you will find a bracket with another (smaller) thermostat, it should have two white wires and a pink dot on it , Remove the wires and check for a closed circuit across the two terminals. As for reading no circuit , that was in reference to the two terminals on the white part with bare wires ONLY. That is testing your heater element for a short to ground, There should be no circuit between each terminal and the heater casing, if there is, then you have a shorted element, if there's no circuit, then your element is fine. Part number: AP4242494
and here is a picture of the thermostat kit, that you may need (to describe the parts you're needing to check, now). Part number: AP4242472
Let me know what you find, :) :) :)
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