Rank: Advanced Member
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Originally Posted by: Marciad34  Hi, so the motherboard that I recently purchased was under warranty so I switched it out and rec'd a new one that should of taken care of the problem correct? Well it didn't the coil was frozen today any other ideas? I am really stumped on this. Is there anything else we can check? Does it sound like we need a new fridge? I'm afraid you did not check the defrost heater for continuity and a faulty defrost heater is one of the most common problems with all GE refrigerators. There are two different way how to do it. The easiest way, which does not require long disassembly, is: Unplug the refrigerator, remove the wire from the "defrost heater" terminal (J9) on the control board and measure the resistance between this wire and the neutral orange wire (pin 9 on the J7 connector). The freezer must be cold at this time. The normal reading should be 22 Ohms. If the reading is correct and the main control board is new, I would just replace the evaporator thermistor (#241 on the diagram) which is mounted on top of the evaporator coils and controls the defrost cycle. If this continuity test shows that the defrost circuit is open and the defrost thermostat is new, then the defrost heater (#230 on the diagram) is the culprit. No doubt about it. The second choice is to go straight to the defrost heater by removing the rear panel in the freezer and check the defrost heater right there.
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Well I gave GE a call and they do not have a service manual available for me and there is no where online I can get one they said they could schedule a tech out. I talked to one of the guys here at work (I work for a heating & cooling co) and he said it could be a leak in the sealed of area what do you think?
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Originally Posted by: Marciad34  Well I gave GE a call and they do not have a service manual available for me and there is no where online I can get one they said they could schedule a tech out. I talked to one of the guys here at work (I work for a heating & cooling co) and he said it could be a leak in the sealed of area what do you think? No, It's not a sealed system failure, (you would have little or no frost on the evaporator coils). As Gene said, it's a failure in the defrost system. It could be as simple as an intermittent component, or a loose, weak connection in the wiring harness(based on all the parts you've replaced and checked) it would also explain why you have gone through 3 heater element kits(that's probably where your loose connection is, as well). I see where Gene attached the available technical data information to his previous post, I'm sure you'll have it diagnosed and repaired in no time using that information. :) :) :)
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Is there a possibility of shorting something out when checking the Ohm's on the resisitor? Right now all that works on the fridge are the lights. Once he did the test mind you he did forgot to remove the wire form the defrost heater terminal J9 on the contol board. He is just very frustrated w/this fridge and not really knowing what to do that he just forogt. Did that mess something up completly? Could the door seals go bad? remove the wire from the "defrost heater" terminal (J9) on the control board
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Ok the frige is up and running and the test said it was 27.5 ohm. Is it better to be higher?
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Can you tell me where all 4 resistors are located on my GSS22SGMB BS. We have checked the location and we see one that is on the bottom of the freezer but that s it. Help please.
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Originally Posted by: Marciad34  Can you tell me where all 4 resistors are located on my GSS22SGMB BS. We have checked the location and we see one that is on the bottom of the freezer but that s it. Help please. Marcia, What tests at 27.5 ohms ? And what do you mean by resistors , do you mean thermistors ?? Resistors are usually on the main control board or built into the wiring harness and in most cases , cant be replaced Please clarify your request(s) so we can get you up and running proper. Thanks, :cool: :cool: :cool:
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Yes I did mean thermistor sorry about that. We replaced the one last week in the freezer behind the ice maker and I noticed the fridge yesterday was up in the 50's but we were in and out of it alot. I test the ohm on the old thermistor and it read 6000 ohm is it possible that it could be the seal on either the fridge or freezer?
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Ok here is where we are right now. We took the motherboard into Serval and rec'd a new once since it has a lifetime warr. We also purchased a thermistor and replaced the one that is behind the ice box. We tested the old thermistor and it tested at 6000 phm. Our next step is to change out the other thermistor in the freezer and test that one. Could it possibly be the door seals?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Originally Posted by: Marciad34  Ok here is where we are right now. We took the motherboard into Serval and rec'd a new once since it has a lifetime warr. We also purchased a thermistor and replaced the one that is behind the ice box. We tested the old thermistor and it tested at 6000 phm. Our next step is to change out the other thermistor in the freezer and test that one. Could it possibly be the door seals? Marcia, Yes it could be that the door seals are not sealing, maybe the door(s) are not closing proper ? But I'd also expect you to have other complaints, frost on the walls. Condensation or moisture in the bins or packages in the freezer. At 6,000 ohms resistance that indicates a temperature of 68 degrees(+/- 3 degrees), with that I presume you took the thermister out and tested it at room temperature ? Or you had the door open for quite some time. You may want to re try the resistance readings on all the thermisters, after you've got it de iced and the unit has run overnight(before it starts to frost over, again) at the motherboard. We need to move on to a possible failed encoder assembly, but we need to know what we've got on the thermisters, first. Good Luck, :confused: :confused: :confused:
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