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Freezer is fine, refrigerator is too warm.
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Brand: -brand- Age: Less than 1 year
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jszczypien  
#81 Posted : Friday, July 4, 2008 10:13:32 AM(UTC)
jszczypien

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Hello appliance wizards, freezer cold fridge not...I pulled the back freezer panel no excessive frost, no blockage in the bottom vent, (the dial one) freezer fan is blowing good, coils are clean and compressor is hot...there isnt allot of airflow from inside the top fridge....Any ideas:confused:
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Gene  
#82 Posted : Friday, July 4, 2008 12:25:03 PM(UTC)
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How the coils in the freezer are covered with frost - partialy or all coils?

Gene.
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jszczypien  
#83 Posted : Friday, July 4, 2008 12:27:22 PM(UTC)
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nice overall light snow...
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ROCK4200  
#84 Posted : Tuesday, July 8, 2008 3:51:46 PM(UTC)
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Hello,
I am having a similar problem with my GE model # GTS22WCMARBB my freezer works but my fridge doesn't. I understand how this fridge works it has a 3 speed evap fan to push air into the fridge duct. I replaced the evap fan back in April of this year do to the motor making noise. Now i opened up to where the circuit board is found out where my fan pins are. We are getting voltage about 12.80 - 13.00V but, when I plug the Evap fan in the fan spinns about 2 -3 revolutions and stops , we also tested out the fan and the fan reads good also I saved my old fan the one that was making noise swap that and it does the same thing. Please help do you think it is the circuit board? Wanted to know before I purchase the part.
Thanks,
Jeff
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Gene  
#85 Posted : Tuesday, July 8, 2008 4:30:26 PM(UTC)
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jszczypien,

Check the damper control (#428 on the break down diagram) and the duct air return (# 434 on the break down diagram) for any blockages.

Here are the break down diagrams for the GE refrigerator Model TFX26ZPDABB

Gene.
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Gene  
#86 Posted : Tuesday, July 8, 2008 4:58:53 PM(UTC)
Gene

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ROCK4200,

At the fan motor connector, check for 13VDC from the red to white wire and 8-13VDC from the white to yellow wire.

If the voltage is correct then the fan motor is bad.

If the voltage is wrong then unplug the J-2 connector on the main control board. Check for 13VDC between pins J2-3 and J2-8 8-13VDC between pins J2-3 and J2-4.

If the voltage is wrong replace the main control board.

If the voltage is correct then the problem is a bad wiring harness.

If there is less than 1 K ohm between white to red or white to yellow wires on the evaporator fan motor, the motor is bad and has to be replaced together with the main control board.

- The part number for the main control board is AP3950129

- The part number for the evaporator fan motor&thermistor assembly is AP3191003

Here are the break down diagrams for the GE refrigerator Model GTS22WCMARBB

Gene.
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jszczypien  
#87 Posted : Wednesday, July 9, 2008 1:57:17 PM(UTC)
jszczypien

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Hey Gene, i didn't see any blockage in the damper...do you think it could be part #257 ? Check the pics of the coil. one was on 7-4 about 15mins with the door open. Check the one from today july9, taken immediately...let me know what you think...
jszczypien attached the following image(s):
july4coil.jpg
july9coil.jpg
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jszczypien  
#88 Posted : Wednesday, July 9, 2008 2:13:43 PM(UTC)
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Sorry, i meant #424
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Gene  
#89 Posted : Wednesday, July 9, 2008 2:21:04 PM(UTC)
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The coil looks good. The part with #257 is the defrost timer which has nothing to do with your problem. There is nothing wrong with the defrost system.

There is something wrong with the air flow. Did you check the duct air return? Be sure the damper is wide open.

Gene.
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Gene  
#90 Posted : Wednesday, July 9, 2008 2:24:01 PM(UTC)
Gene

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#424 is the temperature control which is has nothing to do with this problem too.

Gene.
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