Every 30 days I have to remove all the food in the (pull-out drawer) freezer and chop away ice build-up. The ice seems to flow like lava from the top of the rear wall of the freezer and then spread out across the floor of the freezer. A month of build up is so significant that getting the freezer drawer to open and close is a real chanllenge. Can you suggest a fix? Thanks.

Thanks for the reply. I would like to give this a permanent fix if I could, so taking the bottom off the fresh food section is not a problem for me. If you could pass along the remaining steps, that would be great. Thanks!

Ok, I am going to throw my hat into the ring on this too.

Very similar situation. GE Profile, built-in 42" - the icing on the freezer is un-imaginable.

Since last September, it ices up really really bad. Then, I shut it off - for four straight days. Move my food to another location. Then I keep the doors propped open with a chair.

I figure that four days would thaw out any plug-ups or something. But, yes, like clockwork 5 weeks later it starts icing.

Temperature always looks good. Even external thermometers that I place in the feezer confirm correct readings.

The Ice maker appears fine, no apparent leakage from any of that area.

I called a repair man. Yes I did. He rips the freezer apart (after I let in thaw) and tells me this model has a known design error by GE and needs to be replaced. Since he has no skin in the game (he repairs, doesnt sell products) - I have a tendency to want to believe him.

Comments?

I have a GE Monogram Built-In Side-by-Side Refrig/Freezer. I think that I figured out the lava ice problem.
. There is no drain on the bottom of my freezer section. On top the of my built-in is a compressor on right and a chiller section on the left. When you remove the face-plate cover on top (lift up and pull forward), you'll find a clear plastic hose ('defrost drain') that goes from the chiller section to a pan that is under the compressor. Plugging of this defrost drain may be the root cause of 'lava ice' in the freezer.
. This is how this unit works: Air is circulated from the freezer and refrigerator sections up into the chiller section where heat and moisture are removed and then returned to the freezer and refrigerator sections. Water vapor in the air freezes on the chiller coils and builds up - this keeps frost from building up in the freezer area. The chiller section goes through an automatic defrost cycle periodically where the compressor turns off and a heater coil turns on to melt the ice from the coils. This melt water is supposed to travel through the clear defrost drain hose into the shallow aluminum pan located under the compressor. The heat from the compressor and the air moved through the condensor coils evaporates the water.
. I had followed the full defrost routine described by others here and elsewhere on the net - but the problem came back within a few weeks to a few months.
. This time, I tackled the defrost routine with a vengence. I used a large commercial blower and a small space heater set nearby so that the blower picked up a little additional heat. I directed the blower to the back of the freezer, forcing warm air up into the chiller box until I felt air coming down from the top of the freezer area - through vents located near the front of the freezer just above the ice maker. This heated-air circulation brought down a rain of water from the top of the freezer.
. Next, I focused attention on the clear defrost drain hose. I had a small section of 5/16" transmission hose from my garage and pushed it into the end of the clear hose. I found the clear defrost drain hose to be totally plugged - I could neither blow nor suck air through it. Next, I took a short piece of 1/4" plastic water line (like the kind used for hooking up an ice maker) and pushed it up the drain hose - I placed the other end of the 1/4" plastic water line into my shop vac hose and used my hand to create a seal.
. Taking advantage of the fact that the drain hose is clear, I worked the 1/4" line all the way into the clear drain hose - until it disappearing into the chiller section. I worked the line in and out a few times, until I started to see water come out. When I pulled the plastic line out, the vacuum allowed me to pull out a solid plug of lint that seemed to be held together with bacteria or mold scum. A lot of water then followed the plug. After I pulled all of the water out of the line, it was easy to blow through the line - confirming that the restriction was gone.
. Thinking back, we recalled hearing a gurgling noise after we closed the freezer, and as the lava ice returned, there was no gurgling, and we had difficulty trying to re-open the freezer door after taking something out. Our theory is that when you open the freezer door, cold air falls out and is replaced by warm moist air, when the clear drain hose is open, air is pulled in through the defrost drain hose - and if there is melt water in the hose, we heard gurgling. When the defrost drain hose is plugged, then a vacuum forms as the warm air shrinks - making it harder to open the door.
. So gurgling sound is good - it means the defrost drain is open, difficulty re-opening the door is a sign that the defrost drain hose is plugged.
. We've been asking ourselves, where did the lint in the plug come from???? Here's my theory - everytime you open the freezer or refrigerator, warm air rushes in and when you close the door, the warm air cools off and shrinks, pulling in a little air through the clear drain hose, and bringing with it a little lint/dust/etc. Notice how dusty the coils get on top. We've had this GE built-in for almost 15 years now, dust apparently builds up.
.
I guess we'll see how long this fix lasts.

One thing to try is to thoroughly clean the drip tray under the evaporator coil ans then give them a coating of wax, Buff the wax and the defrost water should get to the drain faster so it cannot freeze.

Flush the drain tube with a 10 to 20 % bleach solution.
You do not need a lot of the solution.
Let it sit for 15 minutes then do it again.
do this several times and then flush the tubing with clean water.
Just be careful to not overflow the drip tray under the unit.
Gunk can grow in the drain tube and greatly reduce water flow.

And the last suggestion is a jiggery pokery.

Get a length of #14 or #12 bare copper wire.
Wrap it snugly (not tight/tight) around the defrost heater,
Then route this to the drain without touching anything else and an inch or so down the drain.
Now every defrost cycle it will also defrost the drain.
Once done let the unit cool down and then force a defrost cycle so you can see how warm the wire gets.
You do not want to melt anything in the unit so you want warm not hot.