Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/17/2008(UTC) Posts: 6
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Hello, I have a side by side GE fridge, mopdel#HSS22IFMBCC. About 1 month ago, it stopped cooling properly. Removing the back panel, the evaporator coils were completely frosted over. A repair technician cut out the defrost heater, saying that it was burn out. He replaced the defrost heater with a new one, and the fridge seemed to work well for about a week (I noticed that he used regular wire nuts to spilce in the new heater, don't know if that is considered acceptable). Then it stopped cooling again, so I called back the company that repaired it in the first place. The evaporator coils were again completely frosted over, and the defrost heater had again burnt out (the repair tech tested it).
I suppose the replacement heater could have been defective, but assuming that is not the case, could this be a problem with the the defrost limit switch failing closed? It looks like this model of fridge does not have a defrost timer but uses a motherboard to control the defrost cycle, so I am hoping that does not require replacement. What would cause the heater to burn out like that?
Thanks!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,620
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He used the wrong heater, he should have never cut and spliced the wires. You must use the correct heater for your model refer or it will burn out the first time the heater comes on. I have been a GE tech for 8 years now and know from experiance you cannot use a heater other than the one for your refer.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,620
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Oh, plus wirenuts are fine to use, but you must use silicone to seal it to make sure moisture does not get in and corrode the wires.......
What is the serial#
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/17/2008(UTC) Posts: 6
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Hi, Thanks much for the fast reply. Using the wrong heater definitely makes sense, and jibes with my observation that this guy didn't know what he was doing at all (did not have a multimeter, didn't check anything besides the heater, did not use any silicone tape for the splice, etc). The serial number on my unit is RA22107. Should I assume that this new heater will fail the same way? Do you think I can demand that the repair company purchases the correct part and installs it for free, or should I just cut my losses with them, and do it myself (as I should have done in the first place)? -Steve
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,620
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It's up to you to fight them. The new one wil most definatly fail the same way, You can call GE service, cost will be $100 to fix, You can buy the part yourself WR51x10101 about $35.00, or call them back to put in the correct part. Make sure the box they use says GE Genuine Replacement Part# WR51x10053, WR51x10031 or WR51x10101...3 different part#'s for the same part....Go Figure :) Order the part here if you want to purchase and do yourself.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/17/2008(UTC) Posts: 6
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Just checked the new heater...blown! Ordering the part from you now!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,620
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To get you by, defrost the evap and you can get about a week before it starts giving you problems
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/17/2008(UTC) Posts: 6
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Hi, I just received the new defrost heater. Since the bogus repair man cut out the original one, I'll need to splice the new one in. Any suggestions for how to splice it? Weather-proof wire nuts? Butt splices? Use liquid or regular electrical tape with either of the above? Are there special connectors for inside of a freezer?
Thanks for your help!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,620
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I like to use bell connectors, any connector will do. get a tube of silicone (kitchen and bath stuff is fine) and just fill the connector with it after you have crimped it of coarse. All your trying to do is seal the wire from the moisture
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/8/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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this is my first post on this thread... (instead of starting a new one.) I picked up a replacement defrost heater for my GE TFX22PRDA (side by side frig.) It's a dual element heater that is called for as a replacement for the previous single element design. (GE has had numerous recalls over this and other issues... so I've discovered.) The new heater element has 4 connection terminals and a jumper on one side (on the right in the pic.) The two wires to the old heater run down either side of the coils where they easily connected with the old single element unit. The new instructions say to splice the existing heater wire that previously connected on the right and bring it to the left side of this new heater. (so both leads are connected on the left side.) ** I ask... why can't I just use the extra piece of wire provided and make a longer jumper to connect across the terminals on either side of this heater in a "Z" configuration, and connect the wires on the sides (like before) and save myself the trouble of splicing the wire inside the freezer? (and avoid the step of waterproofing the splice?) Looking at the dual unit, I can't see how it matters which way the current runs through the elements. The frigin' thing does have the 4 terminals and obviously isn't a custom design replacement for my model only. Anyone seen a few of these?? Is GE tryin' to trick me into contortions of carrying out this splice job by their odd instructions in some cruel twist of industrial manipulation? (or is it just technical indifference to those of us with the wiring set up for the old single element?)
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