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Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,620
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They have improved the heater from a single coil to a dual coil, over all it's a better heater. This is what I do, put the jumper on the left side, take the wire that was running down the left side of the evap and bring it over and down the right side of the evap vwith the other wire and hook it up, if it is too short, you need to splice on the wire they gave you in the kit.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 12/8/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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Originally Posted by: abadfish66 They have improved the heater from a single coil to a dual coil, over all it's a better heater. Thanks for responding to my post. I am optimistic that the dual coil should work better and that they have thought out the technical specs to make the change, but the mechanics of the connectors seems less than user friendly. What's with the wire splicing when the dual coil could have been designed to match the existing wiring? (I continue to speculate this heater must match other applications.) Originally Posted by: abadfish66 ... take the wire that was running down the left side of the evap and bring it over and down the right side of the evap vwith the other wire and hook it up, if it is too short, you need to splice on the wire they gave you in the kit. The instructions cover this idea, but I doubt mine will reach across. I respect that you may not want to "publicly" condone my idea of crossing over with the jumper (could mislead or confuse others that might read the forum,) but I'm going with it if the "left" wire won't reach across... unless you have a scary DYI story to set me straight!! threebolt attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
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I would pull one of the wires up to the top of the evaporator and run it down next to the other one, you will need to splice a wire to this on so it will reach the element. This new element should last longer, less watt density.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,620
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Go ahead and cross over the wire. Not really sure why you find it unacceptable to cut and splice a wire? Just remember there is quite a bit of heat that comes off that heater, so if that wire your going to cross over isn't far enough away, it's going to burn when the heater comes on.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 12/8/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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Originally Posted by: richappy I would pull one of the wires up to the top of the evaporator and run it down next to the other one, you will need to splice a wire to this on so it will reach the element. After I manually defrost the freezer (again) to finish this job, I'll see if the wire will go over the top. Seems that would keep the wire away from moisture during regular defrosts. Originally Posted by: richappy This new element... less watt density. can't wait to drop that one into conversation over the holidays!! Originally Posted by: abadfish66 Go ahead and cross over the wire. Not really sure why you find it unacceptable to cut and splice a wire? Just remember there is quite a bit of heat that comes off that heater, so if that wire your going to cross over isn't far enough away, it's going to burn when the heater comes on. You point here about the heat is well taken and probably explains the short jumper design. I am now convinced of the importance of keeping all wires away from the elements. Maybe my idea would work if I kept it safely from the heat, but I now consider I don't want to end up buying another heater if I screw up. Cutting and splicing the wire isn't that big a deal, but I have arthritis and it requires reaching inside this narrow freezer with both hands while twisting sideways... so I just looked at this new replacement element and tried to find an easier way. (then I began to scratch my head at GE and ask if... why wouldn't they design it to match the existing wires? And if they missed that bet, maybe the instructions were equally offered up with a lack of options.) Anyway, as soon as the ice cream starts going soft again...
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