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I have both on as cold as possible. The only other item I can add is that the defrost water tube does have water in it. I have a class that I must attend today so may not get to the freezer today ( take a class to teach a class ) THANKS for your respones as I am very confused by the inconsistent temp readings in the refrig ( I keep thermometers in both and check daily)
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Whirlpool EB21DK bottom freezer refrigerator, 14 years old, freezer is fine but refrigerator is warm. Door gaskets are tight all around. Removed back freezer panel and discovered a frozen wall. Defrosted with hairdryer and found bimetal switch was not attached to the coil. I secured it at the point where the aluminum tubing transitions to copper. Thought all was well for a few days but.... Now I see that the frost is solidly building up again in the area under the fan and near the upper right corner refrigerator vent, despite the bimetal still being in place. Using an infrared thermometer, and at the end of a defrost cycle, the bimetal measures about 50 degrees, the temperature it's supposed to turn off the defrost cycle at. I also see, using a "killowatt" device, that the defrost cycle is running for only four or five minutes. It's clear using that device when the timer enters defrost mode, and that it's using 700 watts for a few minutes and then 0 watts until it enters compressor mode again. Should I reposition the bimetal to an area where the frost builds up, replace it with one that has a higher temperature rating or look into something else? I really need to get this back in reliable service soon. Thanks in advance for help.
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Originally Posted by: kcofoid  I have both on as cold as possible. The only other item I can add is that the defrost water tube does have water in it. I have a class that I must attend today so may not get to the freezer today ( take a class to teach a class ) THANKS for your respones as I am very confused by the inconsistent temp readings in the refrig ( I keep thermometers in both and check daily) The right (refrigerator) temperature control is actually the thermostat which reads the refrigerator temperature, while the left (freezer) temperature control controls the cold air flow from the freezer into the refrigerator. Setting this temperature control "as cold as possible" means you almost closed the cold air access into the refrigerator. Set the freezer temperature control on 1 and wait about 24 hours to see the result. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: poliepolie I just a got a 2001 Kenmore Coldspot model #61182108 (per the tag inside) as part of a funiture/appliance exchange. It is my understanding that the fridge had been unplugged for a few months, was plugged in 2 days ago and seemed to be working fine. Brought it home a day ago and plugged it in at noon. Set temperature to "3" both on fridge and freezer. It's been a day and a half and the fridge did not get below 42. The freezer is fine. Thouroughly vacuumed the bottom of it by removing the front grill; removed the freezer back panel and cheked for the opening to the fridge and everything looks open and free of blockage; ice did not have time to form on coils and fan moves freely. Had it unplugged for couple of hours and plugged it back in, there is very little cold air flowing into it form the freezer. BTW the whole thing is empty; so no blockage of vents. I am asuming there is a problem with the damper but don't know how to access. And can't seem to find the same model anywhere on the web. Read from the begining of the blog till page 30th when I decided to post my own request for help.
Help?! Remove the rear panel in the freezer and check how the evaporator is covered with snow. It suppose to be about 100% covered with a thin snow after a few hours being on. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Olives Whirlpool EB21DK bottom freezer refrigerator, 14 years old, freezer is fine but refrigerator is warm. Door gaskets are tight all around.
Removed back freezer panel and discovered a frozen wall. Defrosted with hairdryer and found bimetal switch was not attached to the coil. I secured it at the point where the aluminum tubing transitions to copper. Thought all was well for a few days but....
Now I see that the frost is solidly building up again in the area under the fan and near the upper right corner refrigerator vent, despite the bimetal still being in place. Using an infrared thermometer, and at the end of a defrost cycle, the bimetal measures about 50 degrees, the temperature it's supposed to turn off the defrost cycle at. I also see, using a "killowatt" device, that the defrost cycle is running for only four or five minutes. It's clear using that device when the timer enters defrost mode, and that it's using 700 watts for a few minutes and then 0 watts until it enters compressor mode again.
Should I reposition the bimetal to an area where the frost builds up, replace it with one that has a higher temperature rating or look into something else?
I really need to get this back in reliable service soon. Thanks in advance for help.
Try to attach the thermostat to the other side of the coil. Gene.
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Gene- thanks for your assistance in trying to figure out what's wrong with our Kenmore coldspot. Yesterday we wake up to a fridge at 36º. I get all the shelves out to clean them again since I think it is working fine. After all were cleaned and placed back in, the fridge is at 66º and does not get below 48º by the time we go to bed. This morning I read your reply post... I checked the empty fridge and it is at 33º. We had items in the freezer so we emptied it- everything was frozen, ice being made in the ice trays, etc.- and removed the back cover to discover that only the tubes on the ends of the coils have snow all around them; the thin metal parts that look like a radiator had no snow on them. See pictures attached. We just checked the freezer and there is water dripping onto the metal tray and it is not as cold (probably because we had it open to remove the back and take the pictures- but want to make sure we describe everything that is going on). Now what do we do?poliepolie attached the following image(s):
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Originally Posted by: poliepolie Gene- thanks for your assistance in trying to figure out what's wrong with our Kenmore coldspot.
Yesterday we wake up to a fridge at 36º. I get all the shelves out to clean them again since I think it is working fine. After all were cleaned and placed back in, the fridge is at 66º and does not get below 48º by the time we go to bed. This morning I read your reply post... I checked the empty fridge and it is at 33º. We had items in the freezer so we emptied it- everything was frozen, ice being made in the ice trays, etc.- and removed the back cover to discover that only the tubes on the ends of the coils have snow all around them; the thin metal parts that look like a radiator had no snow on them. See pictures attached. We just checked the freezer and there is water dripping onto the metal tray and it is not as cold (probably because we had it open to remove the back and take the pictures- but want to make sure we describe everything that is going on). Now what do we do? Did the compressor run at that time? If it did not, most likely the refrigerator was on the defrost cycle. If it did, then there is a problem with the sealed system or the compressor itself. You have to redo this test while the compressor was running for a few hours prior to it. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene Did the compressor run at that time?
If it did not, most likely the refrigerator was on the defrost cycle.
If it did, then there is a problem with the sealed system or the compressor itself.
You have to redo this test while the compressor was running for a few hours prior to it.
Gene. Seems to me your refrigerator is low on refrigerant, indicating a leak in the sealed system. This leak will have to be located, repaired, & regassed. This has to be done by a qualified technician.:(
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Hi Gene :)
I have an 8 year old Kenmore Coldspot Model 106.61182101
For the past 3-4 days we have had a warm refrigerator (up to 56 degrees at one point) and the freezer was up to 8 degrees F. After putting the settings for both the freezer & refrigerator to the coldest the freezer is where it should be (0 degrees) but the refrigerator won't go any lower than 48 degrees F. There is no ice build-up in the freezer but I tried your tips in the original post.
1. I heard the click of the defrost timer clock but did not hear any sizzling.
2. I removed the back freezer pael and dettached the defrost heater.
I found the heater had 33.7 ohms (I checked it three times to verify).
Does this mean the defrost thermostat is bad or am I faced with another problem?
I really appreciate any information you can give.
Best regards,
J & M's Dad
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Quote:... After putting the settings for both the freezer & refrigerator to the coldest the freezer is where it should be (0 degrees) but the refrigerator won't go any lower than 48 degrees F... This is one of the most common mistakes done by consumers. The fresh food compartment cools down with the cold air coming from the freezer. When you set the freezer temperature control on the coldest setting, you almost closed the air flow from the freezer. Try to set it on the warmest setting and in 24 hours you will see the difference. Gene.
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