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ibdavid  
#11 Posted : Tuesday, June 10, 2008 2:57:26 PM(UTC)
ibdavid

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Gene,

I received the bake element today. I installed it and the oven does not heat up. When I set the control panel to bake it just display initial 100 degree reading and does not increase. It does make the click sounds if you increase the preheat temp setting, but never heats up :(

The Bake element out of the box reads 16ohm, I thougt it was supposed to be about 18.6:confused:

I, of course have no idea what to do now. The cooktop still works. Here are a couple pics of the new element and the connection on the rear of the unit.

UserPostedImage


Back connections.........................


UserPostedImage
Gene  
#12 Posted : Tuesday, June 10, 2008 3:28:32 PM(UTC)
Gene

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David,

Looks like the oven control board (clock) got damaged when the bake element shorted out.

Gene.
ibdavid  
#13 Posted : Tuesday, June 10, 2008 3:31:48 PM(UTC)
ibdavid

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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
David,

Looks like the oven control board (clock) got damaged when the bake element shorted out.

Gene.



Gene,

Thanks for your reply. Is the clock something I can replace myself? would you advise doing it or is it likely if I replace the clock something else could be wrong? Sorry to be a pest, but like mant today I am cash strapped and want to make wise decisions from a money stand point.

Thanks Again,

David
Gene  
#14 Posted : Tuesday, June 10, 2008 8:09:11 PM(UTC)
Gene

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David,

The clock is not too difficult to replace yourself. Remove the rear control panel cover to access the clock. Remove one wire at a time from the old clock and connect to the new one.

Nobody can tell you what else could be wrong with your range, but it is not very old and a new range will cost you much more than 160 bucks to fix this one.

Gene.
ibdavid  
#15 Posted : Monday, November 10, 2008 4:26:23 PM(UTC)
ibdavid

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Gene, thanks so much for your guidance. I ordered the clock today. It's been a long time with no oven. I will post my results once I have the clock/cotrol board.
ibdavid  
#16 Posted : Thursday, November 13, 2008 2:53:53 PM(UTC)
ibdavid

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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
David,

The clock is not too difficult to replace yourself. Remove the rear control panel cover to access the clock. Remove one wire at a time from the old clock and connect to the new one.

Nobody can tell you what else could be wrong with your range, but it is not very old and a new range will cost you much more than 160 bucks to fix this one.

Gene.


Gene,
Well I put the clock in. Tried the oven and lo and behold it lit the bake element and started to heat up. Then I did something incredibly stupid. I started to put the metal back panel bacl on without unplugging the oven.

There was a spark and when I checked out what happened it looks as though the lead that goes to the stove top "ON" indicator made contact with the back metal plate and soldered itself right to it.

I dont know if the oven still works because I have not plugged it back in. My question is can the oven work with that indicator light connection bypassed? What do I with the disconnected wire? Can I get the metal clip piece at a hardware store and reattach it?
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Gene  
#17 Posted : Thursday, November 13, 2008 4:30:36 PM(UTC)
Gene

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It probably will work without this indicator light. At least you can try. Insulate all wires, using an electric tape and turn it on. This light is probably gone.

Gene.
ibdavid  
#18 Posted : Thursday, November 13, 2008 5:49:45 PM(UTC)
ibdavid

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Gene,
thanks for your reply. I cut back the two wires that would hav attache dto one of the leads to the light and I wrapped them in electrical tape. The oven appears to still work and the cooktop but neither the cooktop "on" or the "hot surface" indicators work. No big loss as I am just happy to have an oven again. Thanks for all your help. I hope "appliance parts pros" pays you!
Gene  
#19 Posted : Thursday, November 13, 2008 6:04:07 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

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Posts: 27,455

David,

I'm glad you were able to fix the oven. You can replace this indicator light and they both will work.

I'm volunteer on this nice forum as all other experts are. We just trying to help people like you are and our "pays" is your appreciation.

Gene.
Wdrob  
#20 Posted : Tuesday, January 5, 2010 3:07:36 PM(UTC)
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This was a great thread. I had the same problem last week; while cooking dinner I heard a buzz, pop from the stove and the lights flickered in the house. I checked the stove and it was no longer on.

After Reading this thread. I unplugged the stove!

First I replaced the bottom element by removing the racks and the two screws on the bottom cover plate at the back of the inside the oven. Next I removed the cover plate by lifting up on the sides. Once removed, the burner was clearly blown so I bought a new burner at the local Maytag store and installed it in about 20 mins.

However I still had no heat from the top or bottom element.

I then ordered a new control unit - Part Number 74009211

I found the control unit for various prices on the internet from 115 US to 225 CAD.

www.**************************.com seemed to be the cheapest, but I actually ordered it from a friend of a friend direct from the manufactor for the employee price of 88 CAD with tax and shipping.

Unscrewed the old control unit by removing the top cover at the back of the oven (use 1/4 socket) and then 4 phillips screws holding the unit in. Screwed the new unit in and then removed each of the wires one at time and pluging them into the new unit that was already attached.

Put the cover plate back on and then plugged the stove back in and everything was working fine.

Thanks again for previous threads! Saved myself a bundle. Sears wanted 80 CAD just to come out and diagnosis the problem before any parts and labour.

This was an easy job, even for a novice.
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