Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: Ericonline  I have a Kenmore Elite ColdSpot side-by-side model 106.56703500 about 5 y/o. Last evening we noticed that the frige side was warm - like 60 - 65 degrees. The freezer seemed even colder than previous (Ice cream was hard...normaly it is softer). Also, don't know if it's related or not but we have noticed in the last few days that, occaisonaly, the doors will be very hard to open...almost as if there is some kind of suction going on from inside.
I checked the diffuser (air damper) and it is all the way open. There appears to be no air movement at all from the air-inlet in the frige - even when the freezer door is open.
I checked the outlet for blockage and there is no blockage.
Could this be a fan problem? If so which fan. Open the freezer door and check if the fan inside is working. Check if there is frost on the rear panel in the freezer. Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: fulls First off... thanks for posting up all this great info. I have a Samsung SxS... I believe the model is RS2556SH (but I have to check to be sure). I've had to defrost it with a hair dryer twice so far. The second time, I checked the components as per the information here... heater is running ~95ohms, thermistor is working, fuse runs at ~zero ohms. So now I'm at a loss... I just put it back together for now. Based on past experience, it runs fine for a number of weeks and then I eventually have a solid block of ice back there.
My question is what do I do now? How do I run a self-diagnostic or other test? How do I know if it's the fan or something else? HELP! :confused: I don't have a service manual or anything... I was hoping it was a bad thermistor or something simple. Now I'm confused.
Thanks in advance for any help! Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for MAYTAG RS2556SH Ref - Sxs | AppliancePartsPros.comThe troubleshooting instructions are attached to the replay. Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/6/2010(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
Originally Posted by: Gene Thanks, Gene. Turns out I have a model RS253BASB. Sorry. I did look at the attached file, however. I figured I would give it a shot and run the self-diagnosis as it states. Once I get the beeping, I release the buttons. It beeps for a while longer while the freezer side LEDs alternate between "98" and "88" and the fridge side stays at "88"... and then it stops beeping, goes back to the normal display, and nothing happens.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/6/2010(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
Originally Posted by: fulls Thanks, Gene. Turns out I have a model RS253BASB. Sorry.
I did look at the attached file, however. I figured I would give it a shot and run the self-diagnosis as it states. Once I get the beeping, I release the buttons. It beeps for a while longer while the freezer side LEDs alternate between "98" and "88" and the fridge side stays at "88"... and then it stops beeping, goes back to the normal display, and nothing happens. Okay... after further examination, this is what I'm kind of thinking. That the self diagnostic with the blinking 98 / 88 was basically telling me that the one LED segment that was blinking is the only problem. Since that translates to a PLC error and can be ignored, it didn't find anything. I guess I was expecting the display to be blank except for the errors instead of lit up except for the errors, if that makes sense. So that means that it thinks everything is working? Now what? The diagnostic is not finding anything and I didn't find anything. Can I test the fan easily? Is there something else I should look at?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/6/2010(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
Originally Posted by: Gene Thanks again. Two quick questions. What is the best way to diagnose the PCB before shelling out the $215+ for a new one? The second question might be kind of silly... since this is only a defrost issue that causes a problem once every 6 weeks or so, is there an easy way to hook the heater up to a direct manual switch that allows me to periodically externally activate it for a short time to defrost the evap without swapping expensive parts or going through the PITA of taking a hair dryer to the coils every month and a half? I guess I would really just need to know what current needs to flow through the heater... after that point, running wires through a grommet to the outside of the unit would be easy enough. Once again, I know this sounds like a stupid, half-assed way of fixing the problem; but I'm a little short on cash.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/7/2010(UTC)
Posts: 2
|
Okay I have a fridgidaire model FRT18IB4AWA that is not defrosting so I assume it needs a new timer or heater. My question is the fridge is running continously is this related to the timer not operating or is my thermostat need replacing also. I have defrosted and restarted fridge but it does not shut down.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: fulls ...Two quick questions. What is the best way to diagnose the PCB before shelling out the $215+ for a new one?... The defrost cycle operates by this PCB. If all parts in the defrost circuit are good (per the tests results you posted) , the only suspect left is the PCB. Especially because the problem is intermittent. There are no diagrams nor any other technical information for PCB diagnosis. No comments on your second question. Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: shakey1 Okay I have a fridgidaire model FRT18IB4AWA that is not defrosting so I assume it needs a new timer or heater. My question is the fridge is running continously is this related to the timer not operating or is my thermostat need replacing also. I have defrosted and restarted fridge but it does not shut down. I would diagnose and fix the defrost problem first. It can eliminate the other problem. The troubleshooting instructions are on the very first page of this thread. The defrost timer is shown as #23 on the diagram. The defrost heater and defrost thermostat are shown as #14 & #21 on the diagram. Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/7/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5
|
I have a question...
I'm trying the suggestion of turning the dial on the defrost timer clock wise until it clicks to switch from the cooling cycle to the defrost cycle. IF I'm lucky and it defrost the frosty build-up in the back of the freezer (and any frost blocking the pipes or whatever), can this be enough to get my fridge working at least for the time-being until I get the timer replaced (that is of course if the timer is the culprit)? Would I be able to manually turn the defrost timer to defrost mode periodically manually on my own until it gets fixed? Last question, I advanced the dial till I heard the "click" if I do hear the "sizzle" as mentioned, will it go back in to frost/cold mode on it's own? I hope it doesn't stay in defrost mode :confused:
Please help my fridge is getting warm and I'm worried about the perishables!
Refrigerator: Roper RT14BKXGW00
Manufactured: 04-98
Type: 14TFA98 (top and bottom combo)
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
