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If after advancing defrost control clock to defrost setting you say that if heaters start up then the clock is bad. But if the heaters do not start up, couldn't the clock STILL be bad and responsible for the defrost cycle not commencing including failure of the heaters to start up?
What if the heaters do not start up AND the defrost control clock does not advance so the compressor does not start up after the 16 minutes allowed for the defrost cycle? Wouldn't that indicate that the defrost control clock IS dead?
Thanks for your input.
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Originally Posted by: kcstoy  It is a GE Model # GSS25WGPABB
Freezer works, but fridge is barely cooling. Had a repair guy come out and paid $65 for him to tell me to clean the coils behind the fridge. He offered to do it for a hefty charge and I said we could do that ourself. He said everything else looked fine on the fridge and cleaning those coils should help, it didn't.
If that didn't help he said there was some frost on the back panel of the freezer which I can see, it is not a lot but it is there. Pulled the panel on the back of the fridge off and can see a huge amount of frost build up. Should I just thaw it out or should I go through all the steps listed in the initial post to make sure I don't have a problem that will just reappear in a week or so after the thaw.
Thanks in advance for any help anyone can provide. Looks like there is a problem with the defrost system in your refrigerator. You can find more useful information on the third page of this thread. Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric GSS25WGPABB Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.comGene.
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Originally Posted by: saldurante If after advancing defrost control clock to defrost setting you say that if heaters start up then the clock is bad. But if the heaters do not start up, couldn't the clock STILL be bad and responsible for the defrost cycle not commencing including failure of the heaters to start up?
What if the heaters do not start up AND the defrost control clock does not advance so the compressor does not start up after the 16 minutes allowed for the defrost cycle? Wouldn't that indicate that the defrost control clock IS dead?
Thanks for your input. It's possible and has to be tested for continuity and by measuring the voltage. If you do have any specific problem, then post more information and hopefully together we will find the solution. Gene.
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Thanks Gene.
I guess here's my question in a nutshell:
If I advance the defrost control clock so the defrost cycle kicks in, should the clock continue advancing and go to a cooling cycle after 35 minutes? (My defrost is 16 hours @35 minutes). My defrost control clock is stuck wherever I leave it. If I advance it to defrost, the compressor will never come on again (It won't defrost either.) And if I advance it to a cooling cycle, the compressor will never turn off. The defrost control clock doesn't move.
Wouldn't this indicate that the defrost control clock is not working--whether or not the heaters heat up during the attempt at defrosting?
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Originally Posted by: saldurante Thanks Gene.
I guess here's my question in a nutshell:
If I advance the defrost control clock so the defrost cycle kicks in, should the clock continue advancing and go to a cooling cycle after 35 minutes? (My defrost is 16 hours @35 minutes). My defrost control clock is stuck wherever I leave it. If I advance it to defrost, the compressor will never come on again (It won't defrost either.) And if I advance it to a cooling cycle, the compressor will never turn off. The defrost control clock doesn't move.
Wouldn't this indicate that the defrost control clock is not working--whether or not the heaters heat up during the attempt at defrosting? The defrost timer is bad. No doubt about it. Gene.
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Hi Gene,
A few pages back on this thread, (pg. 86, i believe) my fresh food side of the fridge wasn't cooling properly. You told me to set the freezer side to A and I left the fresh food side on 5. It started cooling and went down to 32 degrees. I put a new door gasket on, as that was old anyway. I also replaced my dual solenoid water/ice thing. Now the fridge side is around 45 degrees again. :mad: My new gasket fits great, no more leaks in the basement from the new solenoid installation. My compressor works, my freezer works, the ice maker works as does the water dispenser. I am beside myself what the problem could be? Thermostat timer, defroster, or what?
Any ideas?
Oh, I can open the fridge door for not even 10 secs. and the temp goes up anywhere from 5 to 10 degrees. Sounds unbelievable, but it does.
Freezer is on A and fridge side is on 5. The fridge is running and I just opened the freezer door and noticed on the second shelf in the back (shelf below the icemaker) there is a slight frosty look on that back part. I haven't opened anything yet, but also noticed that the vent in the front on that same shelf, that blows the cold air into the fridge, has very little airflow. Is that normal? The 1st and 2nd shelves on the fridge side are anywhere from 42-48 degrees. Yesterday the fridge was 32 degrees. Could it be the temperature control? Yikes, that's $115-
Also, my food in the freezer is frozen pretty solid even on the warmest setting A. That wasn't doing that yesterday or prior.
Thanks a bunch.
Wendy
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saldurante is way off base here.
You have a motherboard in the back of the fridg that may be bad. Defrost the ice in the freezer with a hair dryer and check the defrost heater, if bad ( they usually get black if bad) I would replace it, probably will fix your problem.
If good, replace the motherboard WR55X10524, order it on this site .
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richappy: My model GE TFX20NWXF predates motherboards.
My defrost heaters may be bad, but the defrost control definitely is bad, so I'm replacing that first. Thanks again Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Wendy ...I can open the fridge door for not even 10 secs. and the temp goes up anywhere from 5 to 10 degrees. Sounds unbelievable, but it does... Hi Wendy, What kind of thermometer did you use to control the temperature? Remove the food from the freezer. Remove the rear panel in the freezer and check how the evaporator coils are covered with snow. Gene.
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Hi, I'm experiencing the same symtoms with my Samsung side by side model RS2556SH. Symptons: - My freezer is operating perfectly fine. - Refrigerator was not cool at all. - The fan is not circulating air in the refrigerator at all.I'd proceeded to open up the refrigerator and found a frozen evap/heater assy. I'd defrosted the entire fridge and then proceeded to conduct diagnostics. I'd tested the temperature sensor (yellow wire harness) and the resistance readings were per the Samsung service guide. Then I'd tested the defrost heater (red and white harness) and the resistance measured 95 ohms.Lastly, I'd tested the thermo-fuse and it read the same reading as my ohm-meter when I'd shorted it. When I’d performed the self-diagnostic self check, I’d received a refrigerator fan error (segment 4 on the fridge temp section). Does this mean that I need to replace the fan motor? Does anyone have any suggestion to conduct more diagnostics? Mark Read more: http://forum.appliancepartspros...-ok-4.html#ixzz0rSI27muB http://forum.appliancepartspros.com
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