acillatem,

What about the surface elements? Do they work? If not, check the circuit breaker.

Assuming the circuit breakers are fine and your range is getting 220 volts (and not just 110 volts)... - I checked your model and don't see a fuse, however I do recall more than one case where KitchenAid forgot to include the fuse on the diagrams...

Try this: disconnect the power to the range first. Then, remove the back panel of the range. You should see the ends of all three oven elements. First, see if there is anything that looks like a fuse on the back wall of the range (small plastic component with two wires connected to it). If you don't see anything like that, you can trace the common wire and see where it leads to (there is a common wire that all three elements share). If there is no fuse (or thermostat), chances are it leads to the common relay on the board. This is where I would typically recommend replacing the board, but you've already done that. Let me know what you find. If you do see a fuse, get the 7 digit number off of it and post it here.

I have looked very thoroughly, and there is no fuse. Up in the top control panel all around the ERC board, and in the back after removing the back cover. I even followed the thick red wire down to the pigtail, and no fuse of any kind. I'm not kidding, it's not there, unless they hid it under the cooktop on mine, and I doubt that. I went and bought an Ohm Meter today, and checked all 3 elements, and all 3 registered zero when tested, which is what I should get if working correctly, right? And I checked the oven temperature sensor, and it measured 1000 ohms resistance, which I've been told is what it should be......hopefully that was accurate information. I did find the common wire that all 3 elements share, and it is a brown wire that ends up going to a sort of tan wire that ends up at some terminal on the ERC board, and the plastic over the connector has a kind of "burned" look to it, which seems odd to me. From what I can see, it still appears solid, so I'm assuming there is still a good connection, but this could be the problem, so I have a couple pictures, to see if anyone agrees, or has an idea what is going on with this. It is linked to the 3 elements, so maybe this is the culprit. Here are the 2 pictures:

http://i80.photobucket.c...alliholic06/DSCF1875.jpg

http://i80.photobucket.c...alliholic06/DSCF1874.jpg


Again, any advice greatly appreciated,and thanks in advance! I almost called the local repair place today after the new board didn't solve the problem,but I have this feeling it's something simple now. Sure hope so anyway. I don't give up easily lol.

So(since this is foreign to me), I pull that wire in the picture off, and then do I simply find the next break in that same wire, and then test it from those 2 ends??? Do I leave the meter on OHMs? I consider myself pretty handy, but electrical stuff is uncharted territory to me, for the most part, that's why I ask. What do you think caused that terminal to do that, and If I go to Radioshack, is there any special thing I need to ask for, or simply clip that terminal off, and say "i need one of these"? And thank you very much!

Thanks again..........just got back from Radio Shack.....had to find it myself, the guy looked puzzled lol. Couldn't find a right angle one, but oh well, no big deal, straight will work. I've got crimpers and whatnot......I've done this kind of thing, so hopefully this is it. I would find it hard to believe that I would have bought a brand new board that would have a bad relay......anything is possible, but that would be pretty rare, I'm assuming.

O.k. the idiot sold me the wrong connectors, so I had to go back. I'll be doing all the testing and whatnot soon. The guy on the phone said electrical parts are not returnable, but you're saying it is under warranty?