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Gene  
#861 Posted : Tuesday, June 8, 2010 5:00:05 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Sounds good. Keep watching.

Gene.
InAZ  
#862 Posted : Wednesday, June 9, 2010 6:05:13 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
In what position are both temperature regulators?

Gene.


Hello Gene,

I apologize for the delay; life threw a few things my way and I rather got tied up dealing with them.

To recap; I replaced the temp control/thermostat in my Maytag MSD2756geb. About a week later I noticed the temps dropping in the freezer below the -4 to -10 they'd been holding at so I pulled off the back. Ice had formed over the coils. This was the point in time I posted my dilemma that you were asking about above (the temp controls are set at a little above 5 for the fridge and a little below 5 for the freezer.)

Subsequent to that, I am finding I have to defrost the coils about once a week because the coils freeze over. Also, the defrost regulator (or something in that vicinity) makes a buzzing noise occasionally.

What would the next step be?
Gene  
#863 Posted : Wednesday, June 9, 2010 1:31:21 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: InAZ Go to Quoted Post
Hello Gene,

I apologize for the delay; life threw a few things my way and I rather got tied up dealing with them.

To recap; I replaced the temp control/thermostat in my Maytag MSD2756geb. About a week later I noticed the temps dropping in the freezer below the -4 to -10 they'd been holding at so I pulled off the back. Ice had formed over the coils. This was the point in time I posted my dilemma that you were asking about above (the temp controls are set at a little above 5 for the fridge and a little below 5 for the freezer.)

Subsequent to that, I am finding I have to defrost the coils about once a week because the coils freeze over. Also, the defrost regulator (or something in that vicinity) makes a buzzing noise occasionally.

What would the next step be?


A faulty Adaptive Defrost Control (#13 on the diagram) is well known problem with all Maytag refrigerators for last ten years. Looks like the problem with your refrigerator is a bad ADC as well.

- The ADC Part number: AP4070403
Part number: AP4070403



Gene.
cincinnatithompson  
#864 Posted : Friday, June 11, 2010 2:17:48 PM(UTC)
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I have a ten year old Jenn-Air side by side, model: JCD2389DTB . I am able to cause a defrost cycle via the temperature control board which then defrosts entire system and restores a balanced temperature however, if the power goes out, or with simply the passage of time (say two weeks) the refrigerator fails to hold a temperature, raising to 60 degrees while the freezer stays frozen. There is significant frost build-up in between the Frig and the Freezer passthrough (damper control?). Would this likely be a cause to replace the thermostat? Where is the thermostat located as I don't see it on this diagram: Freezer compartment (jcd2389dtb/w) replacement parts for JENN-AIR JCD2389DTB Ref - SXS/I&W | AppliancePartsPros.com

Much thanks,

Jason Thompson
Gene  
#865 Posted : Friday, June 11, 2010 4:11:58 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Hi Jason,

More likely the problem is a bad Adaptive Defrost Control board (#13 on the diagram).

- The ADC board Part number: AP4070403
Part number: AP4070403



Gene.
ICCrunch  
#866 Posted : Friday, June 11, 2010 6:05:58 PM(UTC)
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Just a quick update - my fridge has been working perfectly since replacing the evaporator fan motor. Fridge temp is holding around 36F, and ice cream in the freezer is hard. I'm so happy! Thanks again, Gene :)
Gene  
#867 Posted : Saturday, June 12, 2010 5:08:30 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: ICCrunch Go to Quoted Post
Just a quick update - my fridge has been working perfectly since replacing the evaporator fan motor. Fridge temp is holding around 36F, and ice cream in the freezer is hard. I'm so happy! Thanks again, Gene :)


You are welcome. I'm glad to hear that the problem has gone and you can enjoy ice cream again :)

Gene.
kerrywaynetake2@hotmail.c  
#868 Posted : Sunday, June 13, 2010 10:17:50 AM(UTC)
kerrywaynetake2@hotmail.c

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I am replacing the fan for the evaporator coil in my GE TBX23ZGB. (The old one souned like a squirrel on crack and would only spin with assistance, so I ordered a new one from here). The fan blew away from the coils and over the pan that collected water in the bottom of the unit. Was this the correct direction the fan was supposed to go?????


Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
In this post we will talk about one of the most common problems with your kitchen refrigerator – the freezer looks fine but the refrigerator part is warm.

Before we go further let me explain the basic performance of the refrigerator.

Your refrigerator could be made by Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire or Maytag – it does not matter.

The cooling coil (aka evaporator coil) is located in the freezer behind the back panel.

The evaporator fan is distributing the cold air through the cooling coil into the freezer and, through the damper control, into the refrigerator, causing the refrigerator to cool down as well.

If anything goes wrong with the cooling coil in the freezer, wrong temperature in the refrigerator is more visible and gets your attention first due to a very big temperature difference in the freezer (normally -5°F to 6°F) and refrigerator (36°F to 40°F).

So the problem as it looks to you is: the freezer is fine but the refrigerator is warm.

Well, the cause of this problem could be very different and now we will go over the first one – a faulty defrost system.

As the evaporator coil cools down, the frost builds up on the coil.
If it does not defrost periodically then the excess frost will block the air flow though the cooling coil, affecting proper distribution of the cold air and causing an increase in the temperature (the fresh food compartment first).

The classic defrost system (we are not talking now about refrigerators operated by electronic devices) consists of three parts: the defrost timer which calls for defrost on certain time intervals, the defrost heater which should melt the frost and the defrost thermostat which senses the cooling coil temperature and operates with the electric current to the defrost heater.

The first and most important sign of a faulty defrost system is a frost build up on the back panel in the freezer.

How to find out which part of the defrost system is bad?

Based on my own experience, I would recommend the following procedure:

1). Locate the name plate with the model number of the refrigerator.

2). Type the model number in the search box, click the “search” button and you will be directed to the break down diagrams.

3). Using the break down diagrams, locate the defrost timer.

4). Using a flat screwdriver, slowly turn the shaft in the middle of the defrost timer clock wise until it clicks to switch from the cooling cycle to the defrost cycle.

5). Wait about 10 to 15 minutes, open the freezer door and see if you can hear a sizzling noise. If you can, then the problem is the defrost timer which has to be replaced.

If there is no such noise, go to the next step…

DO NOT FORGET TO UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR!

6). Remove the back panel in the freezer, unplug at least one wire on the defrost heater (you can locate it using the break down diagram) and check continuity across the defrost heater wires.

If it’s open, the defrost heater is bad and has to be replaced.

If it has some resistance, then the problem is the defrost thermostat.

You can check the defrost thermostat continuity only if it’s frozen because if it’s warm, it should be normally open.


Best regards.
Gene.
Comkeen  
#869 Posted : Wednesday, June 16, 2010 4:49:44 PM(UTC)
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Great post Gene, it helped me very much! My Evap coil was a block of ice, and prevented air from getting up into the fridge on my 10yr old Amana PARB2107AW0. I defrosted it with a hair dryer and seems OK now. I believe the problem happend because "not me!" packed too much stuff in the freezer and was not carful closing the door. One morning I noticed the door was slightly ajar and there was quite a bit of frost in the front of the freezer. 2 days later, the fridge warmed up. So my question is what, if anything should I replace on a preventitive basis? I'm of the "ounce of prevention.." mindset, or in this case it may be a pound of prevention. Point is I'm not opposed to replacing a sensor or timer that could have become damaged during this 2 day ordeal. Thank you again for your excellent post!
kcstoy  
#870 Posted : Thursday, June 17, 2010 3:22:34 PM(UTC)
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It is a GE Model # GSS25WGPABB

Freezer works, but fridge is barely cooling. Had a repair guy come out and paid $65 for him to tell me to clean the coils behind the fridge. He offered to do it for a hefty charge and I said we could do that ourself. He said everything else looked fine on the fridge and cleaning those coils should help, it didn't.

If that didn't help he said there was some frost on the back panel of the freezer which I can see, it is not a lot but it is there. Pulled the panel on the back of the fridge off and can see a huge amount of frost build up. Should I just thaw it out or should I go through all the steps listed in the initial post to make sure I don't have a problem that will just reappear in a week or so after the thaw.

Thanks in advance for any help anyone can provide.
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