Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! You can not login or register.

Notification

Icon
Error

207 Pages«<8283848586>»
Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
walemon  
#831 Posted : Thursday, May 20, 2010 8:04:35 AM(UTC)
walemon

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/20/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3

Hello Gene,

GE MODEL# GSL22WGPHBS

I read the steps that you suggested in your opening post. But instead of running test (because I don&#8217;t have the tools) I changed the heater and thermostat outright. I had ice built up around the coils and on the back wall of the freezer. The refrigerator started losing temp first and the freezer soon followed. Now the freezer works fine since the changes but the fridge wont cool enough. I checked both fans and they are operating. The damper between the freezer and the fridge appears to be operating properly. Vacuumed all the dust that had gathered in the front in the back of the fridge. But the food side still wont cool enough. Any suggestions? I have someone coming tomorrow but would hate to pay for something that I could fix myself. Thank You.

One note: While vacuuming behind the unit I noticed the compressor gets kinda hot or warm. Could the unit simply need a refrigerant? Thanks again&#8230;
Gene  
#832 Posted : Thursday, May 20, 2010 2:27:07 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
Originally Posted by: walemon Go to Quoted Post
Hello Gene,

GE MODEL# GSL22WGPHBS

I read the steps that you suggested in your opening post. But instead of running test (because I don’t have the tools) I changed the heater and thermostat outright. I had ice built up around the coils and on the back wall of the freezer. The refrigerator started losing temp first and the freezer soon followed. Now the freezer works fine since the changes but the fridge wont cool enough. I checked both fans and they are operating. The damper between the freezer and the fridge appears to be operating properly. Vacuumed all the dust that had gathered in the front in the back of the fridge. But the food side still wont cool enough. Any suggestions? I have someone coming tomorrow but would hate to pay for something that I could fix myself. Thank You.

One note: While vacuuming behind the unit I noticed the compressor gets kinda hot or warm. Could the unit simply need a refrigerant? Thanks again…



Remove the rear panel in the freezer and check how the evaporator coils are covered with snow. Normally it suppose to be about 100% covered with thin frost. If it's not fully covered, the system can be low on Freon.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric GSL22WGPHBS Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
Gene  
#833 Posted : Thursday, May 20, 2010 2:42:22 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
Originally Posted by: Hasty Go to Quoted Post
Hi Gene,
I have a Kenmore with model # 596.69872990. I have the same problem and noticed a big amount of frost in the back panel of freezer. I used a hair dryer to defrost it last month but in less than a month,it happened again. I came across your site and read post # 1. I know I have to start with Timer , then to check the thermostat and heater, however I don't know where to find these elements in my fridge. I teried searching the model # in this site, however it seems there is no exact match. Can you please guide me where I should find the timer, thermostat and heater?
Much appreciate that.
Hasty


Hasty,

Sorry for the delay.

The defrost timer is on the bottom of the cabinet (#0342 on the diagram). The defrost heater and the defrost thermostat are in the evaporator area (#43 & #23 on the diagram).

- The defrost timer Part number: AP4246797
Part number: AP4246797



- The defrost heater Part number: AP4011792
Part number: AP4011792



- The defrost thermostat Part number: AP4002415
Part number: AP4002415



Gene.
crusolympic  
#834 Posted : Saturday, May 22, 2010 6:39:53 AM(UTC)
crusolympic

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/22/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1

Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
In this post we will talk about one of the most common problems with your kitchen refrigerator – the freezer looks fine but the refrigerator part is warm.

Before we go further let me explain the basic performance of the refrigerator.

Your refrigerator could be made by Whirlpool, GE, Frigidaire or Maytag – it does not matter.

The cooling coil (aka evaporator coil) is located in the freezer behind the back panel.

The evaporator fan is distributing the cold air through the cooling coil into the freezer and, through the damper control, into the refrigerator, causing the refrigerator to cool down as well.

If anything goes wrong with the cooling coil in the freezer, wrong temperature in the refrigerator is more visible and gets your attention first due to a very big temperature difference in the freezer (normally -5°F to 6°F) and refrigerator (36°F to 40°F).

So the problem as it looks to you is: the freezer is fine but the refrigerator is warm.

Well, the cause of this problem could be very different and now we will go over the first one – a faulty defrost system.

As the evaporator coil cools down, the frost builds up on the coil.
If it does not defrost periodically then the excess frost will block the air flow though the cooling coil, affecting proper distribution of the cold air and causing an increase in the temperature (the fresh food compartment first).

The classic defrost system (we are not talking now about refrigerators operated by electronic devices) consists of three parts: the defrost timer which calls for defrost on certain time intervals, the defrost heater which should melt the frost and the defrost thermostat which senses the cooling coil temperature and operates with the electric current to the defrost heater.

The first and most important sign of a faulty defrost system is a frost build up on the back panel in the freezer.

How to find out which part of the defrost system is bad?

Based on my own experience, I would recommend the following procedure:

1). Locate the name plate with the model number of the refrigerator.

2). Type the model number in the search box, click the “search” button and you will be directed to the break down diagrams.

3). Using the break down diagrams, locate the defrost timer.

4). Using a flat screwdriver, slowly turn the shaft in the middle of the defrost timer clock wise until it clicks to switch from the cooling cycle to the defrost cycle.

5). Wait about 10 to 15 minutes, open the freezer door and see if you can hear a sizzling noise. If you can, then the problem is the defrost timer which has to be replaced.

If there is no such noise, go to the next step…

DO NOT FORGET TO UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR!

6). Remove the back panel in the freezer, unplug at least one wire on the defrost heater (you can locate it using the break down diagram) and check continuity across the defrost heater wires.

If it’s open, the defrost heater is bad and has to be replaced.

If it has some resistance, then the problem is the defrost thermostat.

You can check the defrost thermostat continuity only if it’s frozen because if it’s warm, it should be normally open.

Best regards.
Gene.


Well I have a GE TBX18JASERAD. The cooling coils are underneath and in the Lower back of the fridge. :( I vaccumed out as much dust as possible. My freezer works fine but the Temp in the fridge is too hot [about 50 degrees] I see NO timer/Metal Box anywere near the cooling coils or by the compressor on this unit. I have the Temp control in the fridge near max[ #8, Max is #9]. The SPST switch is set to "set here if moisture appears on outside] as opposed to[ Power conservation setting]:confused:
Any help would be extremely appreciated in this issue :o
nigels  
#835 Posted : Saturday, May 22, 2010 8:17:32 AM(UTC)
nigels

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/22/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2

i have the same problem. i checked and there is no air comming through to the fresh food trays. The fan in the freezer is spinning.
Gene  
#836 Posted : Sunday, May 23, 2010 7:49:23 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
Originally Posted by: crusolympic Go to Quoted Post
Well I have a GE TBX18JASERAD. The cooling coils are underneath and in the Lower back of the fridge. :( I vaccumed out as much dust as possible. My freezer works fine but the Temp in the fridge is too hot [about 50 degrees] I see NO timer/Metal Box anywere near the cooling coils or by the compressor on this unit. I have the Temp control in the fridge near max[ #8, Max is #9]. The SPST switch is set to "set here if moisture appears on outside] as opposed to[ Power conservation setting]:confused:
Any help would be extremely appreciated in this issue :o



You said
Quote:
...The cooling coils are underneath...


I believe the cooling (aka a evaporator) coils are located in the freezer behind the rear panel. The defrost thermostat and the defrost heater should be there as well. The defrost timer is located inside the control panel.

- The defrost timer Part number: AP2061708
Gene  
#837 Posted : Sunday, May 23, 2010 7:50:48 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
Originally Posted by: nigels Go to Quoted Post
i have the same problem. i checked and there is no air comming through to the fresh food trays. The fan in the freezer is spinning.


What is the complete model number of the refrigerator?

Have you checked the evaporator coils?

Gene.
nigels  
#838 Posted : Sunday, May 23, 2010 8:48:31 PM(UTC)
nigels

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/22/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2

The model numer for my whirlpool refrigerator is :ET1MHKKMT08 . I have not made any check as yet.
doctsc  
#839 Posted : Monday, May 24, 2010 6:14:40 PM(UTC)
doctsc

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/24/2010(UTC)
Posts: 2

Gene,

I have a simular problem with my Frigidaire GLRS237ZAW7 Refrigerator. The damper air vent sticks in the closed position. The air vent closes automatically when the temperature reaches the setpoint, but will not reopen when the temperature inside rises and the thermostat calls for air flow. I can tap on the damper control unit housing and the vent will open and allow cold air flow through. What can cause this problem and what should I check to correct the problem? Also, can you provide me with a test procedure? The problem seems to be with the damper controls, but I am not sure if the entire unit needs to be replaced or just one of its components. The evaporator has no ice or frost build-up, and both fans are working and the freezer side is working fine.

Thanks
Gene  
#840 Posted : Monday, May 24, 2010 8:23:36 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
Originally Posted by: nigels Go to Quoted Post
The model numer for my whirlpool refrigerator is :ET1MHKKMT08 . I have not made any check as yet.


Remove the rear panel in the freezer and check how the evaporator coils are covered with snow and if there is an ice build up on the bottom of the freezer. Post the results.

The model number you posted does not come up. Verify and repost it.

Gene.
Users browsing this topic
Similar Topics
Freezer is fine, refrigerator is too warm. (Refrigerator & Freezer Repair)
by mrhoagie 11/3/2012 1:46:58 PM(UTC)
Another Freezer is fine, refrigerator is too warm. (Refrigerator & Freezer Repair)
by rzeune 10/7/2010 9:19:39 AM(UTC)
Freezer is fine, refrigerator is too warm. (Refrigerator & Freezer Repair)
by allemich 4/19/2009 8:02:07 PM(UTC)
207 Pages«<8283848586>»
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.