Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
|
If the tubing is a bit rough, I would solder all joints with silver solder and unions.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/21/2010(UTC)
Posts: 29
|
Sounds good! Hopefully it wont be too much of a problem getting the old piece of copper to come out of the sleeve.. :)
Edit: Oh well, looks like compression fittings are gonna have to do the trick.. I held a torch on one of the lines (joint) for about 2 minutes and it never budged, and I've never soldered with a torch before..
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
|
I am sure you could find a pictorial tutorial on the internet for that, but compression fittings should be ok, just might leak a little oil.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/21/2010(UTC)
Posts: 29
|
Well, I found a video.. Maybe I wasnt holding the hottest part of the flame over the joint? I might give it another shot this afternoon and see if I can get that piece of copper out of there.. It's really not even smooth enough for a compression fitting.. I can barely get the "nut" over the copper stub w/o quite a bit of force.. But anyway, on the video, the solder seems to melt/flow fairly quick.. I hope this factory stuff isnt some super heat resistant solder that my propane torch cant melt?? (As I said, I held it on the joint for nearly 2 minutes and it didnt budge.. And I was timing it?) Wish me luck! ;) And thanks once again for the help!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
|
You will not have high pressure in the output tubing, well less than 40 lbs. so lead based solder with a low melting point would do fine.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/21/2010(UTC)
Posts: 29
|
Yea, the solder I use to re-attach will be standard lead solder.. It's the solder they used at the factory that Im concerned about.. (I couldnt get it to flow or come apart when I tried yesterday)
Update: Well, I got the copper stub out of the "high pressure" side.. The solder never did appear to flow, but the copper pipe and sleeve near the joint turned cherry red, so I grabbed the stub with my pliers and it slid right out.. Unfortunately it looks like there's quite a bit of residual solder inside the "sleeve".. Not sure a new piece of copper will go in far enough to be effective?? (I also tried to remove the "stub" from the "inlet" side, and I think it must of broken off even with the sleeve, or else they just had it butted up against the inlet sleeve to begin with? But Im just going to use a section of "fuel line" to couple the air filter and "inlet".. Im also considering using fuel line for the union between the "high pressure" outlet, and new copper tubing.. It would be alot easier, and I wouldnt have to do any torch soldering.. Do you see any problems with using a small piece of fuel line (and clamps) as a union between the "output" sleeve, and new copper tubing that runs to the "tank"?? Thanks as usual for your guidance! Im getting pretty close to finishing this thing.. Biggest problem is cleaning all the old parts (tank, frame, compressor) so I can prime and paint them.. It'd be a very easy task if the "looks" of the project weren't considered.. But Im too ******** about that stuff to just chuck it together.. I'll post a pic if I ever get it completed! :) Thanks richappy!!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/21/2010(UTC)
Posts: 29
|
Howdy Richappy! Well, here she is.. Everything went together smoothly, but I have a problem.. Those 2 cooling lines are creating suction and/or pressure (output).. I didnt think they created enough pressure to effect the high pressure output line, but the compressor only builds about 20psi and then it blows the plug off one of the cooling lines, then quits (or slows big time) building pressure in the tank? (There just rubber cap plugs I slipped over the ends of the tubes as I didnt think they had any pressure relating to the "high" pressure lines?) Im not sure what to do with them? Can I just connect them with a section of hose, or should they be capped seperately? (And if capped, is there a way I can cap them w/o the use of a torch and solder?) Thanks pal, you've been the only one whose helped me along with this, and I do very much appreciate it! Oh, the picture.. Here ya go! :) Before:  After: :) 
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
|
I would crimp over the lines and use silver solder to solder them.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/21/2010(UTC)
Posts: 29
|
Originally Posted by: richappy  I would crimp over the lines and use silver solder to solder them. Well, I tried connecting the 2 lines and then capping them seperately, and both ways it still wont build over 80psi. The motor sounds like it's running and the intake is sucking air, but the gauges (2) both stay at 80psi or just below? Ya think it's just not capable of doing what I need, or should I try a "T" (and one way valve) and run both output lines to the main tank? I've read about these silent compressor builds (they use refrigerator compressors and this ones from a freezer) and supposedly these compressors are capable of producing alot more psi than I need.. (My pressure switch is set to shut off at 125psi) Any idea what's up, or what I should do next? Thanks.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
|
If the high pressure line is not disharging to the atmosphere, but capped off, you have a bad compressor.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
