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Hello, I want to apologize right away for this not being a "repair" type question.. What Im trying to do is use the compressor motor (Pictured below) to make an air compressor for my air brush.. (aka: Silent Compressor) but the gentleman I salvaged the compressor motor from didnt know what lines were what.. I've labeled them "A-E" below, and what I can tell you he said, was that he cut line "C" first, and it was under pressure.. The rest of the lines afterward were not.. He also said line "E" was stubbed off from the factory, and that from what he could tell the other 3 lines (A, B, and D) appeared to hook up to coils, up inside the freezer? (This compressor comes out of an old Whirlpool Standup 20cuft. Freezer #EEV204) I searched for the model and found EEV204FW0, which listed a compressor part #464064, and it also showed 5 lines, but there not in the exact same locations as this one, but it "appeared" to be very similar? Unfortunately the lines weren't labeled in the picture/part I found though.. So, could anyone with experience with these motors please help me identify what the lines A-E are? Thank you so much for any help or information! Sincerely, Mick Nesevitch 
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The line with the piercing valve is the suction side, the line that goes to the dryer ( a larger diameter copper tube) is the high pressure side. If you operate the compressor without a suction side filter, it probably will not last long due to suction of dirt particles.
The other two lines are oil cooling lines you need to crimp to prevent oil spilling out.
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OK, so "B" is the suction (Air Intake) Line. Thanks! You say the large diameter line is the high pressure line, but they all look the same to me? Can you tell from the picture which line (A,C,D, or E) it is? Thanks for your help richappy! Sincerely, Mick
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Just a quick update incase anyone else comes across this and wants to do the same, or needs the info I did.. Here's what I did.. (do at your own risk) FIrst I cut all the lines cleanly with a tube cutter, then I bypassed the circuitry for the thermostat, and just used the red/white wires from the compressor and the black/white wires from the "plug" (also grounded the "plug's" green wire to the compressor itself) and then plugged it in.. She runs great! You can immediately identify the high pressure out, and suction "in" lines.. The out spit oil all over the place but hopefully they will subside and I can add a filter between the compressor and tank.. The output turned out to be line "A", and as was mentioned above, the suction "in" line was "B".. Lines C & D are the cooling lines and I couldnt notice any suction or ejection of air from those. (They will be capped off) So there ya have it.. The easiest way to identify what lines are what, is to plug her in and take notes! :)
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Your high pressure line should be elevated and like 2 ft long so when the compressor shuts down all the sprayed oil will run back into the compressor.
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Ok thanks! I had planed on using a long high pressure line anyway, to allow the air to cool, if it comes from the compressor hot.. (I'll be sure to elevate it before making the run down to the tank) Im also thinking about splicing in a dedicated moisture filter between the comp and tank, as well?? (Theyre just H20 filters but might stop oil as well??) But the only real problems I need to solve now are how to introduce oil back into the compressor, since it'll no longer be cycling freon? I've read where some guys drill a small "dipstick" type hole on the top edge of the motor, and just use a piece of wire or something similar to check and replace oil, as needed..(then plug the hole with a rubber plug or something) But drilling a hole in the motor housing sounds like a bad idea to me, since metal shavings could fall back into the internals and possibly hurt it? I was wondering about just funneling in small amounts into the "intake" line, every so often? Any thoughts? Thanks again for the info and help! ;)
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To add oil you can inject small amounts of oil in the suction line, but the compressor must be running. I once added Supco 88 while the compressor was not running, and the compressor seized up and would no longer work!
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Wow, that's weird! What do you think happened? The oil choke/plug the line and lock up the compressor until it burned up or? Either way, thanks for the tip! Im just going to use it for recreation airbrushing (appx. 7-10 hours a week) any idea how often or how much oil I should add? (Just a guess would do.. If I mess up this compressor I can "salvage" another.) ;) Thanks!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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As I remember, there is about a cup of oil in a compressor. The oil cools the compressor motor windings, lubricates the bearings and the bearing surfaces of the pump. As long as little oil gets lost while in operation, the compressor should last for say 100 hours of operation. Pros. say there will allways be some tiny particles of oil escaping the high pressure side, but I am just guessing how long you can operate it till you need to add oil.
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Rank: Member
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Hey, thanks again for all the help! It's much appreciated!! Oh, one last question.. When I plumb the compressor, is it possibe to "un-sweat" the copper "stub" coming from the compressor, and sweat in my new copper tube. Or should I just use a compression "union" to run the new copper tube over to the tank? (the copper "stub" isnt the straightest peice of copper I've ever seen, and would like to just sweat in a new peice if possibe?? But not sure if it's practical with 1/4" copper tube, or possibly even harmful to the compressor, since I'd be using a propane torch and getting it pretty hot? Thanks, as ususal! ;)
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