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Ice maker not making ice, no water. The solonoid are 110 volt, correct?? no voltage at it, did no check resistance. Water line is clear. Light is blinking red on the ice maker control, sometimes it goes to solid red. I would like to use voltage at dispenser solonoid to check ice maker solonoid, are they the same voltage?? If the solonoid is good where to next??
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You have to have a simple multimeter to perform the ice maker troubleshooting. The first thing I would do is swap the wires between the water dispenser and the ice maker solenoids, push the water release lever on the water dispenser and see if water will come into the ice maker. If it will then there is nothing wrong with the water valve and the water line is clear. The next step is: Quote:Remove the ice maker front cover and check for 120VAC between "N" & "L" test points. Make sure the test probes are 1/2" in.
If there is 120VAC then using an insulated piece of wire (14 GA), short points "T" & "H" to run the motor. Leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution and remove it. The water valve should be energized in the last half of the revolution. Post the results and the rest of the refrigerator model number. Gene.
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Hi Gene,
Please give me a point of reference, where is the "front cover":confused:. I read another post yesterday and this is where I got stopped:mad:. I never received or lost material on the refrigerator:(. I found this nomenclature on a tag inside the refrigerator side, Model KSRS25ILWH02 Serial SM4537790 Mfg Date 11/02:rolleyes:
LarryC
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Gene,
It looks as if I must remove the icemaker to get to front cover. It appears to be secured is a sliding tray by a single screw under the bottom, correct?
LarryC
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Hi Gene,
This freezer is designed like my Harley, not designed to be worked on:(!!! I finally got the "front cover" off, N&L show 20 volts:o. Next I tested continuity of the heater Test Points H&N and read something in the neighborhood of 8K ohms (High) not the expected 60 - 75 ohms. This appears to point to a bad heater, can you confirm my diagnosis before I purchase a new mold (heater). I am uncertain because when I remove the control module (board with the motor on it) i test the two pins coming from the bottom of the mold it shows a very low resistance. Is the high resistance coming from something in the CM or the heater itself??
Thanks
LarryC
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Originally Posted by: Gene  You have to have a simple multimeter to perform the ice maker troubleshooting.
The first thing I would do is swap the wires between the water dispenser and the ice maker solenoids, push the water release lever on the water dispenser and see if water will come into the ice maker. If it will then there is nothing wrong with the water valve and the water line is clear.
The next step is:
Post the results and the rest of the refrigerator model number.
Gene. I have done this and the motor does not turn when I jump T and H. My problem started with Ice pusher prongs frozen in ice tray mid rotation. I have good voltage across N and L and no lights in optics window. Any direction on what to do next would be appreciated. thanks John
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Originally Posted by: jmillar I have done this and the motor does not turn when I jump T and H. My problem started with Ice pusher prongs frozen in ice tray mid rotation. I have good voltage across N and L and no lights in optics window. Any direction on what to do next would be appreciated.
thanks
John John, Looks like the ice maker has gone bad. - The ice maker Part number: AP3182733
Gene.
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I have a similar problem with a Kitchenaid Model KSRB25F5502. The ice maker stopped producing ice. Originally the water line was frozen, I used a hair dryer to remove the ice clog. The ice maker then produced ice for one cycle then stopped producing it again.
There is voltage of 120 across L and N, but when I put a jumper across T and H nothing happens. I do not see any LED panel so I am not sure this model has some of the other features that I have read in some of the posts.
Thanks for any help
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