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Originally Posted by: qiqiangzhu  I will try to open the top panel tomorrow. The toe panel, on the bottom. Gene.
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I opened the toe panel few days ago, but it's difficult to check continuity on coil and igniter, since they are deep inside. I hesitate to open the top panel, and remove the drum with belt, since I have some bad experience last time when I changed the belt on other gas dryer. Originally Posted by: Gene The toe panel, on the bottom.
Gene.
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Will it be the problem on the dryer's timer?
This is a coin-operated dryer, ever since I started this machine, it didn't stop, I can only unplug the power cord. But when I plug it back in, and push the start button, it started again.
If the timer broken, no flame/heat will be in the dryer, right?
How to check the timer?
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I've disconnected the igniter power cord (See the picture) and tested the voltage on it when the power is on, it doesn't have 110v, it has only 30v. What went wrong? qiqiangzhu attached the following image(s):
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Here is the timer. How to test if it's failed or not. Why a bad timer will affect the heating process? qiqiangzhu attached the following image(s):
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The timer part for this coin-operated dryer may not be produced by Whirlpool, it maybe a third party product?
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According to the wiring diagram, the power to the heater comes from the switch "B" (the top switch on your picture) through the high limit thermostat (#15 on the diagram), operating thermostat (#8) and thermal fuse (#6). All of these parts have to be checked for continuity with the wires removed from their terminals. The timer switch has to be tested while the timer is in "ON" position. Redo all tests and post the results. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene According to the wiring diagram, the power to the heater comes from the switch "B" (the top switch on your picture) through the high limit thermostat (#15 on the diagram), operating thermostat (#8) and thermal fuse (#6). All of these parts have to be checked for continuity with the wires removed from their terminals. The timer switch has to be tested while the timer is in "ON" position. Redo all tests and post the results. Gene. I checked all the parts in back of the range again, including high limit thermostat, operating thermostat and thermal fuse, they all have continuity. I reached the dryer(heat) censor today, remove a wire from one of the terminal, no continuity; put the wire back, has continuity. Does this mean dryer(heat) censor is broken? I've also checked the voltage on the ignitor when the dryer was turned on, it didn't have 110v, only had about 30v. Why is that? Btw, this video looks very close to my dryer. YouTube - How to troubleshoot a gas dryer (No Heat)
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Have you checked the timer switch "B"?
Which part did you call "dryer (heat) sensor"?
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene Have you checked the timer switch "B"?
Which part did you call "dryer (heat) sensor"?
Gene. The top square box(actually it's the left-most parts in the dryer), with blue and white wires. According the video, he calls this dryer sensor/heat sensor.  Maybe should be called as Flame sensor. 
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