I have the same problem as you with the rs2534ww.Were you able to remove the heater from the evaporator and how does the evaporator come off?I know you can't remove it entirely because it is filled with coolant but do i need to unfasten it to replace the heater?Is the coiled heater mainly in front of the evaporator?

Search for other posts by me and JMKinch. The heater can be replaced without breaking the lines. I took pictures of the whole repair and will post when possible. Old heater was open circuit. New heater ohmed out at 95 ohms. Take your time and you will be OK. The trickiest part is cutting the head off a rivet holding the old heater onto the assembly. Use a bare hacksaw blade in hand to do it inside the fridge. On the new heater/ evaporator assembly, the rivet can be drilled.

I've been frustrated by my Samsung RS2545SH, a Costco purchase that I drooled over for a year or more until I could finally find a place to put it. I mean, dual evaporators -- What a great innovation. If only they had included reverse freon flow for hot-gas defrosting, then none of these icing up issues would have been created. Okay, they could have been, meaning that you would have had more severe issues, like blocked freon lines, or a dead compressor. But still: they combined the evaporators with the defrost heaters?

At first, I had water dripping on my floor because the drain line was blocked, which, according to some sites, meant that a drain heater was dead. Not sure I have confirmed that was true by looking at the schematics and all. But a towel on the refrigerator floor and periodic squeezing it out was enough of a solution. Then the water would not come out of the dispenser -- probably a frozen water line, I figured; never thought it might be a frozen water tank. Then one night, a 65 degree refrigerator with 1 degree freezer. Time to get serious about diagnosing the problem. Took out the shelves and drawers and removed the back panel of the refrigerator: one block of ice.

So here I am at this great site, reading everyone's related problems, and now have a start as to how to fix it all. I hope it's not a bad defrost heater, but if it is, I'll do the fix described here: pull a heater from a new unit and swap it with my bad one without having to solder and evacuate and all that. At $49 for the part, not bad at all. The other solution is return it to Costco for my money back. But at, what, 350 pounds? I'm not ready for that bit of moving, not just yet anyhow.

Someone here suggested buying a defrost heater made for some refrigerator: I'd prefer to do that, actually, like wrapping heater strips on your outside water lines for the winter. Does anyone have a good suggestion as to which brand and part number would be a best solution for that? I'd prefer the lesser hassle of doing that if it was thought to be doable and there was a good part out there. I'd be happy to take the chance and report back if it worked, assuming it is indeed my defrost heater.

But before I forget, thanks, RNick, for posting your results.

Thanks for everyone's great input. I'm thrilled to find a forum where even the novices are treated well by the experts.

Cheers!

Really help thread I found. I have a Samsung refrigerator (RS2545SH) with the same defrost problem: the fridge coil is covered by ice and the fan is blocked by ice. it can not make cool on the fridge side. It will work 3-4 days after removing the ice.

I request a repair. Do you think this repair will be covered by the warranty?

i use a cow needle / syringe with a small rubber hose attached, primitive i know. warm water in the syringe is forced directly down the hole and is way better than a drill bit. bores like crazy. i have changed a heater before via the new evaporator method,removed and replace only the heater. i removed the rivit with a dremel tool, be careful bigtime!! i have a wierd ice buildup at the top of the evaporator, builds up hits the fan, stops it and we know the story. i am a tech so i manually entered defost mode. heater worked so...why the ice. the fan also worked before and after. premature defrost termination?? bad sensor telling the pcb to terminate defrost. entire evap is not covered. Hope it not a freon issue. Any help??