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Need help determining if a Temperature Selector Switch is Faulty???
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/5/2010(UTC) Posts: 2
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Hey guys,
I have a question about testing a Temperature selector switch for continuity. I read the sticky post and it covered, T-stats, elements, etc, but not the selector switch.
So On this kenmore dryer, my question is, the temperature selector switch has 4 settings, as i click through all 4 i am getting different readings on High temperature i get INFINITY on perm press i get 2.2 Ohms on low heat i get 1 Ohm and on Air dry i get ZERO.
is this correct or is the switch bad (costs $50 bucks locally to order it)???
This is in relation to a dryer problem, where the dryer RUNS, but no heat. T stats at Zero Upper Tstat ZERO Element is BRAND NEW (replaced it before i even bought a multimeter). and i don't see a thermal fuse anywhere in the sears diagrams.
HELP! Much appreciated! Have a great weekend!!
Adam
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
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Here is the tech sheet http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodinfo_pdf/Webster/134061500.pdfIt shows what the resistances should be for the different settings. Be sure to disconnect at least one side of it when measuring it, this prevents you from reading an alternate/ parallel circuit path. One way to double check would be to disconnect one wire from it, tape the wire up so it cannot short to any thing. Then plug it in and give it a try. Unplug the unit, set the timer to mid-cycle timed dry. Tape/clip your one meter lead to the L2 side of the heater. Leave it there Then work your way through the components till you get to L2. If everything stays at the approximate 13 ohms of the heater then the problem is either a bad wire from the heater to L2 or the centrifugal switch on the motor is not being activated or is toast. Have you checked that the unit is getting the correct power. Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker. If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug L1 to L2 should be 240 volts L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts. If OK Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out If OK Check the power at the terminal strip. Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! |
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/5/2010(UTC) Posts: 2
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Thanks, it ended up being a fryed circuit breaker that was arcing and not giving a full 240v. have a good day! Adam
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Need help determining if a Temperature Selector Switch is Faulty???
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