will do, we turned fridge to 4 setting and all seems well, a guy at my work said keeping settings at 5/5 avoids failing motherboard/fans, but not sure he has the same model/motherboard.

For SpartanRooky, factory control settings of midrange have NO effect on the motherboard reliability.
To replace the motherboard, just follow the directions with the new board. I am sure you are aware that the motherboard has the same weak drivers for all the devices in the fridg, so just make sure your condensing fan motor and auger motor are ok befor pluging in the new board. Also use a surge protector as I suggested before.

Ok, finally got a chance to check out your suggestions, and here is what I found.
J1 doesn't have pin 2 connected, I am assuming pin 1 is on the right side of the connector on mine since the left side is not wired.
Ohming pin 1 to pin 5 yields 0 ohms. If I assume that the right side is pin 1, then pin 1 connected to pin 2 not connected is 6 ohms.
I am still having problems with things in the fridge freezing, and I did verify the light is coming through the opening between them, so the opening looks good.

I couldn't find any service sheets or thermistors. I do think the damper door may be faulty, it seems always open wide. I do have a little valve in the lower fridge part to adjust the temperature, and when I turn it up or down all the way I don't see the damper door closing. I will check later tonight for thermistors as I still have food in it, so not easy to check all locations. Is the damper door compartment replaceable?

Ok, I will hunt those down, I did look a bit more and found this though.
My fridge has 3 possible openings between freezer and fridge (side by side).
1 is the damper door up top, another is similar but smaller down at the bottom, and the other is a little lever that will open or close a small hole by the drawers at the bottom.
I did verify if I set the temp to 0 on fridge, no air comes through damper door, so I'm guessing the door does work, it appears no matter what setting I use to me the air feels the same pressure, so my gut is that it thinks it needs to always be cooling it, hopefully the thermisters are the culprit. Did my check on the J1 between 1 and 5 of 0 ohms confirm thermister is shorted, or not for sure?
I will find those, any idea where they put them in GE models, or does it just depend?