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richappy  
#31 Posted : Saturday, July 25, 2009 5:37:07 AM(UTC)
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richappy

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I have learned a good test for this refrigerator encoder (fridg./freezer control).
If the fridg. fails to run, you might have a bad encoder that sends digital signals to the motherboard.
Just unplug the encoder, the motherboard will automatically go to the default levels of 0 and 36 degrees for freezer and fridg. and will operate till a new encoder can be put in.
stlb5  
#32 Posted : Saturday, August 8, 2009 10:40:59 AM(UTC)
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stlb5

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I have a GE GSS25XGNABB.

Similar problems as others. Freezer is only getting to 20 degrees, coils are frosting, icemaker isn't working properly, and my fan is not running. Is there any way to test the fan with a 9v battery? I tried testing the fan plug with my cheap multimeter, but I wasn't getting any of the voltages or ohms listed. I don't know if it's my mother board or just my cheap meter. Also, I have the 6 pin connector. Across one side is red/white stripe, blue, yellow/black stripe. The other side is white, white/grey strip, red. Which of these should I be checking voltage across? Can I double check that my fan does work before paying for a new motherboard?

Thanks,

Josh
richappy  
#33 Posted : Saturday, August 8, 2009 2:21:39 PM(UTC)
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richappy

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Best to just replace both the evaporator fan motor and the motherboard at the same time. Bad evaporator motors burn out the motherboard.
mero2000  
#34 Posted: : Wednesday, August 12, 2009 8:05:49 PM(UTC)
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mero2000

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i get truble with GE for general refrigerators special that one with control board
my question is
1- if any one can know how can you to check that control board if its good or not
2-what it's that Temperature sensor or that monted beside the evaporat coil in the bottom corner
for what if that bad what it's cause and i see anther one monted on the evaporat coil in the top left corner
if that goinig bad can cause any problem to the defrost system or not
becouse i get hotpoint refrog which is the same GE parts get defrost problem i change the contral board and defrost thermostat and the heater each one twice and still the same problem
richappy  
#35 Posted : Thursday, August 13, 2009 12:58:07 AM(UTC)
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richappy

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Probably a bad evaporator thermistor, a long white plastic thing clipped to the evaporator, the cold coils in the freezer.
smcampbe  
#36 Posted : Saturday, December 5, 2009 8:25:17 AM(UTC)
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Hello all,
I seem to be having a similar problem to some of the others listed here. I have a GE gsh25kgmd side-by-side refrigerator and this morning it started making a noise that sounded to me like the ball bearings in a fan going bad. The sound appears to be coming from behind the freezer section, but I can't be sure. We took the temp in the fridge and it was 43F. The freezer is at 11F.
My wife just now told me that the noise stopped. I don't think that's a good thing, but I'm not sure. I have a multimeter but am not that experienced at making electrical repairs other than occasional computer part replacements. Can you please advise me what I can try? Thanks, Matt

Update: After about 2 hours the noise started again. Temps in the fridge and freezer are holding steady.
Gene  
#37 Posted : Saturday, December 5, 2009 5:14:27 PM(UTC)
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Gene

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Originally Posted by: smcampbe Go to Quoted Post
Hello all,
I seem to be having a similar problem to some of the others listed here. I have a GE gsh25kgmd side-by-side refrigerator and this morning it started making a noise that sounded to me like the ball bearings in a fan going bad. The sound appears to be coming from behind the freezer section, but I can't be sure. We took the temp in the fridge and it was 43F. The freezer is at 11F.
My wife just now told me that the noise stopped. I don't think that's a good thing, but I'm not sure. I have a multimeter but am not that experienced at making electrical repairs other than occasional computer part replacements. Can you please advise me what I can try? Thanks, Matt

Update: After about 2 hours the noise started again. Temps in the fridge and freezer are holding steady.


Sounds like the evaporator fan motor is the culprit. Go to the first page of this thread for the troubleshooting instructions. It's not complicated and if you do it step by step, you should success. The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter - How To Check Continuity With Ohmmeter

- The evaporator fan motor Part number: AP3191003
smcampbe  
#38 Posted : Saturday, December 5, 2009 8:20:52 PM(UTC)
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Gene, Thanks for your reply. I'll keep you updated on how it goes.
SpartanRookie  
#39 Posted : Monday, February 1, 2010 12:42:00 PM(UTC)
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SpartanRookie

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GE fridge dss model, evaporator fan not working, not spinning visually. Proceeded to verify what is wrong, determined red/white wire 13.4 VDC, 0 VDC in yellow/white wire at connector inside freezer part, fan unhooked. So then went to motherboard on back, and verified red/white 13.4 VDC, and 13.0VDC at yellow/white wires on cable of motherboard. Based on this, It appears the cable/path from the motherboard to connector for evaporator fan is bad. I'm going to ohm the path without voltage to check for a short, but this just seems like I may be missing something. Any ideas or anybody ever see this scenario???? Thanks.

More to the story....
Just tried ohming path from motherboard to connector inside freezer supplying voltages to fan, the red and white paths ohm to 0, but the yellow/yellow does not ohm out, like the connection is somehow broke. This seems very weird to me, as it seems the cable from the motherboard to evaporator fan has somehow went bad. Am I thinking of this logically, or missing something still?
richappy  
#40 Posted : Monday, February 1, 2010 1:08:49 PM(UTC)
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richappy

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Rather rare to have a wiring problem. I would locate the schematic for this fridg. if you can find it. It will show which motherboard pins go to the evaporator motor.
Also, GE designed this board to blow out when the evaporator motor fails, so you probably need a new board.
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