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rebel1222  
#1 Posted : Saturday, January 30, 2010 12:12:44 PM(UTC)
rebel1222

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Joined: 1/30/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1

this dishwasher won't start. A couple of months ago it wouldn't start, i took the inside panel off and put it back on, and it worked fine for a month or so. Nowit's doing the same thing. i replaced the door handle assembly. still won't run. Do you thin k it is the push buttoon/ control panel? I would appreciate a few suggestions before I drop another $60.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

rebel1222
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denman  
#2 Posted : Sunday, January 31, 2010 1:51:07 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for MAYTAG MDBH950AWS Dishwasher - Undercounter | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16023222.pdf

Here is a manual
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16021814.pdf

I am assuming the unit is totally dead.

Sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere.

First remove power from the unit and check that the wire nuts connecting power to it are OK.

Next remove the doors inner panel and check that the wires from the control going under the unit are OK.

Check that the door switches are closing with a meter and that power is getting to the control board.
if OK.
Try the following cleaning procedure.
Check the control panel (keypad) with a meter. See the tech sheet.
If OK
Odds are the control board is shot.

Connector Cleaning / Checking
Unplug the unit
Open it up
Remove the ribbon cable from the keypad to the control board at the control board.
Clean the edge connector.
If it is the type where there is not a connector just the insulation is removed, it can be cleaned with a pencil eraser. Do not use an ink eraser as it is too abrasive.
Check the tracks in the ribbon cable for hairline cracks. A magnifying glass helps here.
Would not hurt to clean the connector on the board. Use electronics contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. Be gentle and do not reconnect till all the solvent evaporates.
Reconnect everything and give it a try.



If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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