Here are your parts includes a wiring diagram
Replacement parts for MAYTAG PYE2300AYW Dryer - Ele | AppliancePartsPros.comFirst try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker and the heating coil requires the full 240 volts.
If this does nothing.
Measure the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the unit's terminal strip to ensure they are properly connected and none of them have burned off
If OK
Plug the unit in and check the voltage at the terminal strip. This is just in case you have a bad line cord. Be careful 240 volts is lethal.
If OK
Then check the door switch. Mechanically first to make sure it is being closed.
Then with a meter to be sure it's contacts are closing.
Next would be the thermal fuse Item 5 in Section 5
Unplug the unit and check it with a meter, should be 0 ohms.
Be sure to unplug one side of it when checking it.
If it is blown you have to find out what caused it to go.
It could be just the clog you had.
You will see it comes with a hi-limit thermostat as this thermostat should have regulated the temperature so that the fuse did not blow. It did not so it is assumed that it is bad.
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it.
[COLOR="Blue"]I cleaned the lint and hair away from the dryer and all parts. Checked continuity on the high temp shut off- it read almost 0 omhs. Checked the thermostat at the blower and it reads 0 omhs at the two main leads, but also has two smaller leads on the top and bottom...when I check those the it shows very little on the meter.[/COLOR]
Just so we do not get confused use please use the terminology on the wiring diagram: thermal fuse; Safety thermostat (actually the hi-limit) and thermostat (actually the cycling thermostat)
The thermostat has 4 connections 2 of them are the contacts they should read 0 ohms, the other two are the internal heater they should read approximately 29,000 ohms.
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Am I checking the thermostat properly?[/COLOR]
See below
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Should I just replace the thermostat?[/COLOR]
No, it seems OK you may want to recheck it, see below.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
