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plpoppe  
#1 Posted : Friday, January 1, 2010 5:50:22 PM(UTC)
plpoppe

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I have a kitchenaid dishwasher model KUDL02IRBS1. It stopped working with water remaining in the bottom. There are several green lights across the top panel and none of the lights, light-up. When I hit any button nothing happens. We went away for a week, when I returned the lights were on when I closed the door. It made it through part of a cycle and then quit again. Now I get no lights. There is power to the unit, and I am reading 118V at the circuit panel. I first pulled out the thermal fuse and tested it for continuity. It reads 0. To double check I put it back in and applied power. It reads 0 volts across the fuse and 118 on either side. So I am assuming it is good. The door switch appears good as well. Everything I read hinted that the thermal fuse was the likely culprit, but unfortunately it does not appear that it is. I did not know what else to check. I am assuming the possibility of a short because the fact that after it sat for a while, it worked for a short period. My guess is that I need to look at replacing the wiring harness or the circuit board. Any suggestions on how to further diagnose the problem, or what the likely cause is? Thanks.:confused:
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denman  
#2 Posted : Saturday, January 2, 2010 4:53:55 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KUDL02IRBS1 Undercounter Dishwasher | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%208572216.pdf

Check that the power to the board is correct re P 4,2, 8 and 6 See the tech sheet.
Visually check that the wires from the bottom of the unit to the control board are OK. You may have to check them later for continuity. Also check that they have not been degraded by leaking rinse aid.

Try the following:
Connector Cleaning / Checking
Unplug the unit
Open it up
Remove the ribbon cable from the keypad to the control board at the control board.
Clean the edge connector.
If it is the type where there is not a connector just the insulation is removed, it can be cleaned with a pencil eraser. Do not use an ink eraser as it is too abrasive.
Check the tracks in the ribbon cable for hairline cracks. A magnifying glass helps here.
Would not hurt to clean the connector on the board. Use electronics contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. Be gentle and do not reconnect till all the solvent evaporates.
Reconnect everything and give it a try.

If all OK and the above cleaning does nothing, check the keypad switches, see the tech sheet.
If all OK then it is probably the control board that is shot.
Note that it is still a bit of a crap shoot but your odds are better with the control board if the keypad checks OK.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
plpoppe  
#3 Posted : Saturday, January 2, 2010 11:31:29 AM(UTC)
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Thank you very much. I will give it a try and get back. In the parts, I did not see the ribbon cable listed or shown. If that is broken is there a replacement part?
denman  
#4 Posted : Saturday, January 2, 2010 12:24:32 PM(UTC)
denman

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It is part of the keypad/control console
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
plpoppe  
#5 Posted : Sunday, January 3, 2010 8:01:57 AM(UTC)
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I checked P2,4,6,8 and they looked good. I cleaned the contact and did a visual inspection and everything looked good. I saw no corrosion. I did the keypad check and all buttons checked good. So I ordered the control board.

You said it was still a "crap shoot". So is there any further checks? Any other likely culprits? My wife will give me about a week before she either makes me pay to get someone to fix it, or buy her a new one. So I am better off ordering some extra parts. Do I need to check the wiring harness?
Thanks again.
denman  
#6 Posted : Sunday, January 3, 2010 8:16:56 AM(UTC)
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You said it was still a "crap shoot". So is there any further checks? Any other likely culprits?
Not really, sounds to me as if you have done a thourough job troubleshooting.

Do I need to check the wiring harness?
Sounds like it is getting power so the harness should be OK.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
plpoppe  
#7 Posted : Sunday, January 3, 2010 10:06:31 AM(UTC)
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OK, I will cross my fingers. Thanks again for the great help.
plpoppe  
#8 Posted : Wednesday, January 6, 2010 4:02:21 PM(UTC)
plpoppe

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Please Help. I ordered both the control board and the control panel (to be safe). I installed the control board and nothing happened. Then installed the control panel and still nothing. I checked the power at the board. I am not very skilled at reading the tech sheet or using the multimeter, but here are my measurements
P2: 121
P3:0
P4: 121
P5: 0
P6: 119
P8: 116
P9: 0

at the thermal fuse I read 119 on each side and it goes from infinity to 0 when testing the resistance

at the door switch I read 119 on the tan side and 116 on the bl-w side

I am desperate and irritable so any advice is appreciated. Maybe it is time to throw in the towel and call a pro. I have read the tech sheet several times, and do not see any other possibiities. Thanks.
denman  
#9 Posted : Thursday, January 7, 2010 2:15:31 AM(UTC)
denman

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[COLOR="Blue"]Please Help. I ordered both the control board and the control panel (to be safe). I installed the control board and nothing happened. Then installed the control panel and still nothing.[/COLOR]
Damn!!!

[COLOR="Blue"]
I checked the power at the board. I am not very skilled at reading the tech sheet or using the multimeter, but here are my measurements[/COLOR]
[COLOR="Blue"]P2: 121[/COLOR] Neutral
[COLOR="Blue"]P3:0 [/COLOR] Heater thru board relay to P4
[COLOR="Blue"]P4: 121[/COLOR] Neutral thru a door switch
[COLOR="Blue"]P5: 0 [/COLOR] Motor thru a board relay to P4
[COLOR="Blue"]P6: 119 [/COLOR] L1 thru the fuse
[COLOR="Blue"]P8: 116[/COLOR] L1 thru the fuse and a door switch
[COLOR="Blue"]P9: 0 [/COLOR] Motor (other side) thru a board relay to P8[/COLOR]

I am a little confused by the above readings.
I need to know where the other meter lead was.
It cannot be on Neutral as you see a voltage on P2 which is the Neutral.
When measuring the voltage one meter lead should always be kept on the Neutral (a common reference point).

[COLOR="Blue"]at the thermal fuse I read 119 on each side and it goes from infinity to 0 when testing the resistance[/COLOR]
This looks good
[COLOR="Blue"]
at the door switch I read 119 on the tan side and 116 on the bl-w side[/COLOR]
This looks weird. When the switch is closed it should be a dead short so you should see the same voltage on both sides re: the same as the fuse.
I would pull the wires off it and check it for continuity

[COLOR="Blue"]I am desperate and irritable[/COLOR]
I can sympathize as I have been at the same point numerous times during my career. Sometimes a deep breath and counting to ten does not help but often leaving it and forgetting it for a day or so does the trick.
If you find yourself getting more and more frustrated and you start going in circles then it may be time for a second opinion.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
plpoppe  
#10 Posted : Thursday, January 7, 2010 4:09:54 PM(UTC)
plpoppe

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Thanks for your patience. OK I am going to show my ignorance, but it may answer some questions. I was connecting the red lead to the power lines and the black lead to the stainless steel door, assuming that was grounded. However if I touch the hot lines (p6, P8) with the red lead and the black lead to either the neutrals P2 or P4 I get 0 volts. If I touch the black to the door I show the above readings. Does this mean there is a short in the neutral line somehwere? Also if I connect the red to P2 and P4 and the black to the door I show a positive voltage. I pulled the door switch off and it goes from infinity to zero ohms when depressed.
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