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Thank You! Thank You! I got it working. Unfortunately not sure why. I did two things. I disconnected the door switch and checked it. It looked good, going from infinity to 0 when closed. But the contacts had some corrosion on the tan line so I cleaned with steel wool. Then I did a continuity check on the lines by disconnecting the power at the junction. All checked good. I put it back together, and decided to try one last time. To my amazement, it turned on. I will make sure to recommend this site to my friends.
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Congrats, glad to hear you have repaired it.
Also thanks for getting back to us as now others will be able to see your experience and that you did repair it.
Just a note for the future on using the meter.
Normally you do not use the case/frame as a test lead location.
It is earth ground not electrical ground and can give confusing results.
The case is grounded and is wired this way so that if a live wire touches the case/frame, it cannot go live (blows the breaker) and give you a shock but it is not the return for the electricity.
So normally you just check it using ohms to the live side with the unit unplugged, just to see if perhaps something like a motor winding has shorted to the frame.
When checking for voltage one lead should be on the Neutral as this is the electrical return line.
Hopefully this will help in the future when you repair other appliances. |
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Thanks you! Got it working. Not sure how. I checked the door switch and it was good, but the contact on the tan side looked a little dirty so cleaned the switch with steel wool. Then a did a continuity check on the wiring harness and also checked good. When I put it back together it worked.
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Help again. I am about to jump in front of a bus. Everything worked fine for a week, and then stopped. Same symptoms, no lights. So i checked the power and found that the thermal went is bad this time. It stays at infinity on a continuity check. To double check I jumped the fuse, and my lights came on. So I do not know what to do. Am I just really unlucky and this failure is a coincidence, or is there some bigger electrical problem and this is just a symptom? I am afraid that if I replace the fuse it will just blow again, if there is some bigger problem. Should I just replace the thermal fuse, or should I replace the wiring harness to be safe? Or do I throw in the towel? Thanks again.
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Damn
[COLOR="Blue"]Am I just really unlucky and this failure is a coincidence, or is there some bigger electrical problem and this is just a symptom?[/COLOR]
It could be any of the above. he problem with these fuses is they will blow due to temperature or amperage. Perhaps you can figure out when during the cycle it blew, this may help narrow down a possible cause. Also recheck your harness connections for any signs of overheating/arcing or loose/bad connections.
[COLOR="Blue"]I am afraid that if I replace the fuse it will just blow again, if there is some bigger problem. Should I just replace the thermal fuse, or should I replace the wiring harness to be safe? Or do I throw in the towel? [/COLOR]
All I can suggest is that you check the motor and other parts for resistance, especially the vent's wax motor to be sure they are in spec as far as resistance.
It would be nice if these fuses were cheaper but it may be worth the gamble on a new fuse especially if you can find a problem component. |
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I will show my ignorance again, but how do I check the resistance on the wax motor. If I deciphered it correctly there are two violet lines coming from p10 into a small component at the vent. I assume that is the vent motor. I assumed that I could test the resistance by connecting a lead to each of the pins. However, I still read infinity. Am I doing this incorrectly, or does this mean the motor is bad? Thanks again for your time and patience.
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Also, in case there is an issue with the vent motor, is the replacement part "Vent" AP4321532? The diagram does not show the motor and there is no image available. I saw nothing for Vent Motor or Wax Motor.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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The part number you quote looks OK.
The vent motor should measure 600 to 1800 ohms.
Sounds like it is shot.
FYI: It is called a wax motor. Basically it is a plunger in a tube filled with wax.
It has a heater in it when juice is applied the wax is melted by the heater.
The wax expands and pushes out the plunger.
Remove power and the wax solidifies and pulls the plunger back in, sometimes there is a spring to help the plunger retract.
Works like a solenoid but in slow motion. |
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Thanks, I will give it another shot. I doubled checked the wax motor, and definitely reading infinity. I will order that and the thermal fuse.
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Yes I also think it is worth a try.
You may want to check just to be sure that it is not powered all the time. |
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