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Quote:...Gene, do you know if this board is new and improved or will this be a 5 year plan for me?... GE had really bad luck with this control board. It had to be redesigned a few times and last time it was just a few months ago. Hopefully the last version would last longer. Good luck with your fridge. Gene.
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Dear All:
What a great website to find after I did the wrong thing (i.e., stupid) by not calling the Repairperson FIRST 4 months before Thanksgiving Eve when my ten-year-old GE tbx1saxclwh 12" Steel refigerator stopped working.. It had been making the Rumbling/Shaking noise at random time with some increase in frequency until louder noises in November. It was replaced by landlord with a 2009 with Sheet Metal GE 9.6cubic foot refrig.
The new one has a 9" freezer and the old one had 20"! (deeper inside and outside) The new one feels creaky and I want to resurrect the old 10 year old GE.
By now the old GE that was better Came Back to Life over the Thanksgiving weekend when I lowered the single refigerator cntrol from the Highestthat I had been running it to level 5 or 6. Cooled and Froze things just fine without the Very loud helicopter/drill-like sound coming from it's insides before it stopped working.
THEN IT WAS DISCONNCTED and now it is way smelly in the basement (9 days down there)
Does anyone have inputs whether it might be able to successully repair it through cleaning and the $269 compressor replacement and whatever else is needed 'cause they do not make them like this anymore. All of the current ones in this size in this size are cheap sheet metal except for some with stainless steel doors only.
Thank you......
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I see that you have alot of knowledge about the repairs and whether they are covered by warranty as a defect.
I have a ge pfs22sisbss ser#vh047042 and it stopped working today some time. The display panel has been on and off for some months now. Can this cause the fridge to stop cooling?
Do you know if this would be under warranty? I have read the warranty and it says that this "profile" model can have a 5 yr warranty?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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We woke up this am to the same clicking noise as many others on this forum. The clicking stopped for a few hours, but then by supper time started again and the fridge is not cold anymore. We have emptied it and turned it off. Thankfully it is -27C so all our stuff can go in the garage to stay cold. I expect it is the main board that has gone. I'm going to check in Winnipeg to see if I can track down the board tomorrow. If not I may try the capacitor replacement, as I did this with another fridge last summer, and it worked. Our fridge is 4 1/2 yrs old, so I expect we have no warranty left. I guess we are lucky to make it this long without issues.
Our fridge is GDS20SBSASS, S/N LH046172. The board is WR55X10416 and part # 200D5837G004, model 0158-06-03.
Gene, any other comments or suggestions. Thanks for all the great posts so far.
Update: I managed to track down a board in Winnipeg for $250 cdn on 2 Jan 10. Installed it in 10 min, and the fridge is cooling down now. I'm going to follow up with GE, they must be aware of the issue based on the major re-work of the new control board. Doubt I'll have much success though.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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I'm glad you were able to fix it. Good luck with GE.
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: abadfish66  Spangenb...
Between 3-5 years of age will cost $100 for repair I have the same model # fridge bought in 05 and have the clicking of the relay and it won't turn the fan on and Ge still wants to charge $100.00 hell i can get the mb and do it my self and i'll know it's right . ge doesn't care much about product quality these days . with so many going out for the same reasons it should be a free replacement for many years to come or an upgraded mb
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Originally Posted by: sdsheeks Replacing the two blown capacitor's worked fine for me. It cost about $5.00 in supplies and about 10 minutes of labor. This worked for me too... This morning, wife said "ice cubes are melting"...same symptoms as everyone else in this thread. Was about to shell out $150 to order a board and then looked closer. 2 470uF caps near the top right heat sink were bulging a bit. Ran to the local electronics shop and picked up a couple new ones for $5. Everything is humming along smoothly now. This board is a life saver! Thanks to all of you!
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: usna87 This worked for me too...
This morning, wife said "ice cubes are melting"...same symptoms as everyone else in this thread. Was about to shell out $150 to order a board and then looked closer. 2 470uF caps near the top right heat sink were bulging a bit. Ran to the local electronics shop and picked up a couple new ones for $5. Everything is humming along smoothly now. This board is a life saver! Thanks to all of you! Keep an eye on it it seems to cascade when one componet goes bad on the board it's only a matter of time untill others parts start to go . I replaced the mother board started with the condenser fan relay and then went to the ice maker controls etc . new MB and all is good again
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: Gene The main control board has a few relays on it and when the relay got energized, it clicks.
If there are no problems with the temperature in both parts of the fridge, do not do anything.
Gene. Gene I thought your response about if there is no changes in refrigerators operation it should be fine is very true. The good and bad about these series of motherboards and refrigerators is that the boards are sensitive to electrical surge, fan failure, compressor start component failure and simple unexplaind board failure. If anyone would like a Service Manual that covers the broad range of the Artica/Profile Click Here=> ARTICA/PROFILE Don't be too concerned about if your model appears a little different because the boards and wiring on the models change very little.
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