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wrk24wheel  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, December 16, 2009 6:05:47 AM(UTC)
wrk24wheel

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Joined: 12/16/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2

I have a Maytag Dryer that will not heat consistently. It may work for a week or two and then all the next load could be cold. Other times it will work for a couple of loads and then the next will be cold It is very inconsistent as to when it stops working. Seems like all I have to do is take the front cover off and put it back together and it starts working again. Can't figure that one out, but it has worked so far. I have tested all of the sensors including the coil and they all show proper continuity and resistance of the coils except the thermostat. I see that the thermostat should show continuity when bench tested across the two terminals.

My problem is that I have four terminals on mine.

| = |

The two outer ones show continuity when disconnected. The two upper and lower (closer together) show 6.99k Ohms. Is this sensor shot or is there something else that I am missing. Sensors testing good:

Thermal Fuse - Continuity
Flame Sensor - Continuity
Gas Valve Coils - 2 term ( 1277 Ohms), 3 term - (Left & Middle 1376 Ohms, Left & Right 558 ohms, Right & Middle 1935 Ohms)
Hi Limit Thermostat - above

I have cleaned out the dryer and all lint, tubes were very clean already. Very little lint on hi-limit sensor and thermal fuse when removed for testing.

What do I test next?
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randyhinz  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, February 10, 2010 5:15:22 AM(UTC)
randyhinz

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I have the exact same situation with my Maytag LDG8624AAM. I am getting very adept at taking off the front panel and checking continuity, and am now learning to be adept at the control panel face also. I assumed the Hi-Limit Tstat was ok but now realize that I, like you, actually have 4 wires. Have you made any progress? A few times, the dryer has fired up and is heating properly, and I open the door to put a load of wet towels in to run it a bit, and then it won't heat. I wait an hour, still no go. Open the panels up next day and whammo, heat. I'm thinking if the gas burner fires up (on some days), then it must be a control device. I am currently thinking it may be the rotary temp setting switch but haven't figured out how to bypass it out of the control circuit. Any thoughts anyone?
wrk24wheel  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, February 10, 2010 5:36:14 AM(UTC)
wrk24wheel

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Joined: 12/16/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2

Yes, I went to my local appliance supply shop and told them the problem. He immediately suggested I replace both Gas Valve Coils and my problem will be fixed. Guess what, It has been running great for the past two months since replacing them. Took only a few minutes and cost me $30 for both. They can be had much cheaper online, but I figured I couldn't beat the offer he made me. He said that if it didn't work, he would take them back and swap them for the next thing to replace on my list. You don't see that often with electronics. I figured it was worth the extra $10 bucks.

Good luck.
randyhinz  
#4 Posted : Friday, March 5, 2010 1:11:57 PM(UTC)
randyhinz

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Joined: 2/10/2010(UTC)
Posts: 2

Upon your results, I too replaced the coils. Success!!! I am enormously grateful to you and to Appliance Parts Pros that they offer this service. As a note, I ordered the coils as well as thermostats, sensor, cutoff T and hi-limit T all from Appliance Pros. Returned the unused balance of parts, after the coils did the job. I would never have guessed, on my own, that coils could operate intermittently when worn out. I think of them as good/bad. So thanks again, and I hope my experience and good result is shared or used by others.

Randy
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