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Replacement parts for MAGIC CHEF 6898VRV Range - S/c S/i Ele | AppliancePartsPros.com

When the original element melted down, is there another part that I might also need to replace or is it possible that the "new element" is defective?
Is there a way to test this?
A defective part is always a possibility. Unplug the unit, remove the element and check it with a meter. They are usually around 10 ohms.

There is something under the cooktop that is labeled a switch-snap acting...is this the same as a thermostat and could it have blown when the original element went?
I would say that it is a thermostat/thermal cut-off. But without a wiring diagram I cannot say what it is doing. It is possible that it is just for the bake element.
Unplug the unit and measure it with a meter, should be 0 ohms.

Is there a diagnostic process to go thru to figure this out...can I take the broiler connections and put them on the oven element to see if it heats?
You could but it is easier and safer to use a meter.
240 volts is lethal.

If the above are OK then it becomes a crap shoot.
This unit uses a control board and a relay board. Without a wiring diagram it is difficult to diagnose the cause so the below is just supposition.
It looks like the relay board has the power supply to run the control board and the relays to run the oven elements.
If when you try bake you can hear the relay click in but the bake element does not come on then the odds are that it is the bake element relay that is shot and the relay board needs replacing

A couple things to note is that during preheat for bake most units alternate between the bake and broil elements to give a faster preheat.
Also the relay board has a third relay which may switch between the elements.
Just mentioned the above because it may be difficult to know which relay is closing for just the bake element.

Hopefully someone else will jump in with a wiring diagram or knowledge on this specific unit.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

The oven fan is activated when the oven is set to bake but the element does heat.
I am assuming that the above is a typo and you meant to say "but the element does not heat"

I removed the cover from the relay/solenoid and the contact do not look burn and they do close.

Up until the above I was sitting here thinking, it is the relay then I read that sentence and now it does not sound like the relay is the problem.

Check your wiring diagram to see if that thermostat is in the bake element's circuit path.
May also be an open wire.
It does sound like that for some reason the relay contacts are not completing the circuit to the bake element so there is a break in the circuit elsewhere.

One thing to check on the wiring diagram is that the current to the bake relay contacts does not go through the broil relay contacts (Normally closed). They sometimes do this so that the broil and bake elements can never be on at the same time.

I did notice that the relay board in the illustrated parts has 2 relays but has a spot for a third relay. If yours has a third relay then the current for the bake probably also goes through this relays contacts.

and to answer a couple of your question...

the bake relay does seem to go ththe broil relay. The path on the schematic goes:
L2->bake element->to bake relay->from bake relay to line 1 jumper to broil relay with a split on the jumper that goes to the high limit switch which goes to L1. The L1 jumper to the broil relay goes through the broil relay ->broil element-> L2.

I hope this helps.

Jeff

jeffrey I

Closing this thread...when the bake coil blew it melted the solder on the relay board so while the relay was clicking there was not link to the bake element. Replacing the relay board fixed it. Thanks for all your help!
Jeff