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Marshal,
Looks like we stepped in a wrong direction somewhere in the troubleshooting. So let start it over, step by step - one step at a time.
Make sure the "on-off" switch on the right side is "on". Remove the ice maker head cover (do not unplug the ice maker) and check for 120VAC between "N" & "L" test points. Make sure the test probes are 1/2" in.
If there is 120VAC then using an insulated piece of wire (14 GA), short points "T" & "H" to run the motor. Leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution and remove it. The water valve should be energized in the last half of the revolution.
Post the results.
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene  Marshal,
Looks like we stepped in a wrong direction somewhere in the troubleshooting. So let start it over, step by step - one step at a time.
Make sure the "on-off" switch on the right side is "on". Remove the ice maker head cover (do not unplug the ice maker) and check for 120VAC between "N" & "L" test points. Make sure the test probes are 1/2" in.
If there is 120VAC then using an insulated piece of wire (14 GA), short points "T" & "H" to run the motor. Leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution and remove it. The water valve should be energized in the last half of the revolution.
Post the results.
Gene. Okay, I just checked and re-checked the Vac between the n and l test points and keep getting 34.7 Vac Marshal
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Marshal,
Sorry, I missed couple things in the instructions for the previous test. Before you'll measure the voltage make sure there is a clear path for the infrared beam to travel to the receiver sensor. Push in and hold the door light switch and wait 5 seconds before the voltage test.
If you'll have about the same reading, unplug the ice maker and check the voltage between the black wire in the plug and the ground with the same precautions.
Post the results.
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene Marshal,
Sorry, I missed couple things in the instructions for the previous test. Before you'll measure the voltage make sure there is a clear path for the infrared beam to travel to the receiver sensor. Push in and hold the door light switch and wait 5 seconds before the voltage test.
If you'll have about the same reading, unplug the ice maker and check the voltage between the black wire in the plug and the ground with the same precautions.
Post the results.
Gene. Okay, with the infrared beam path clear and the door light switch held in for 5+ seconds I get a reading of 122.9 Vac between the N and L test points. With the ice maker unplugged voltage between the black and white wires are 34.9 Vac under the same conditions. Marshal
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Quote:...I get a reading of 122.9 Vac between the N and L test points... That means there is a proper power to the ice maker. Next tests: Turn off the cold control and unplug the refrigerator. Slide the ice maker out of the mounting rails and leave the wiring harness connected. Remove the head cover and using an insulated piece of wire (14 GA), short points "T" & "H". Remount the ice maker, making sure that the water fill tube is inside the fill cup. Make sure the "on-off" switch on the right side is "on". Connect power to the refrigerator, but keep the cold control off, so the compressor would not run. Make sure there is a clear path across the bin for the infrared beam to travel to the receiver sensor. Close the freezer door and wait 5 seconds to allow the optics relay to close. Open the freezer door and you should see the ejector bar moving. If it does not, the ice maker is probably defective. Remove the jumper wire prior to the ejector blades reaching 10 o'clock position and see if the ice maker fills with water. The mold should be warm due to the heater operation. Unplug the refrigerator immediately after water fill. Close the freezer door and reconnect the power to the refrigerator. Wait for a minimum of 5 seconds, and a maximum of 50 seconds, then open the freezer door, and view the status LED for the output codes (pulses). Turn the cold control on to the regular temperature setting after the test done. Post the results. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene That means there is a proper power to the ice maker.
Next tests:
Turn off the cold control and unplug the refrigerator.
Slide the ice maker out of the mounting rails and leave the wiring harness connected. Remove the head cover and using an insulated piece of wire (14 GA), short points "T" & "H". Remount the ice maker, making sure that the water fill tube is inside the fill cup. Make sure the "on-off" switch on the right side is "on".
Connect power to the refrigerator, but keep the cold control off, so the compressor would not run. Make sure there is a clear path across the bin for the infrared beam to travel to the receiver sensor. Close the freezer door and wait 5 seconds to allow the optics relay to close. Open the freezer door and you should see the ejector bar moving. If it does not, the ice maker is probably defective.
Remove the jumper wire prior to the ejector blades reaching 10 o'clock position and see if the ice maker fills with water. The mold should be warm due to the heater operation.
Unplug the refrigerator immediately after water fill. Close the freezer door and reconnect the power to the refrigerator. Wait for a minimum of 5 seconds, and a maximum of 50 seconds, then open the freezer door, and view the status LED for the output codes (pulses).
Turn the cold control on to the regular temperature setting after the test done.
Post the results.
Gene. Hi Gene, just so I'm clear on this...when you refer to the "cold control" are you referring to the digital temperature degree control unit (run way up to 50 or 60 degrees?) or do you mean just turn off the whole unit? Marshal
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I meant to turn off the unit to prevent any possible damage to the compressor during unplugging and plugging back the power cord.
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene I meant to turn off the unit to prevent any possible damage to the compressor during unplugging and plugging back the power cord.
Gene. Got it, thanks. Will post results. Marshal
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Originally Posted by: foobydoo Got it, thanks. Will post results.
Marshal Hi Gene, here's the results. I followed your instructions, shorted the T and H points, re-powered, closed door for 5 seconds, opened door and still nothing, no turning of the ejector blades and no heating of the tray. I made sure the jumper wire was long enough, about an inch of bare wire on each end. Optics path was clear. I tried it several times with the same results. I then swapped the new ice maker unit with the old one I replaced three weeks ago when this whole thing started and did the same test. With the old ice maker the ejector arms still did not move BUT the tray heated up. What do you think? Marshal
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Originally Posted by: foobydoo Hi Gene, here's the results. I followed your instructions, shorted the T and H points, re-powered, closed door for 5 seconds, opened door and still nothing, no turning of the ejector blades and no heating of the tray. I made sure the jumper wire was long enough, about an inch of bare wire on each end. Optics path was clear. I tried it several times with the same results. I then swapped the new ice maker unit with the old one I replaced three weeks ago when this whole thing started and did the same test. With the old ice maker the ejector arms still did not move BUT the tray heated up. What do you think?
Marshal Alright Gene old buddy, hold everything. Since this latest test failed I was inclined to think the brand new ice maker unit I bought was defective. I called the company I bought it from and gave them a condensed version of what I had done which in turn led me to believe it was no good. They then told me that strangley enough they had heard this before and they had figured out what the problem was after replacing several "defective" units like mine. Well, turns out that my particular model does not have the metal rod that must be in the down position to work, BUT...this Whirlpool OEM unit and all others like it came from the factory to them with the metal bar mechanism connection in the up or OFF position!! So, after sticking a small crewdriver tip in the hole where the bar would go and turning it 45 degrees ..... ice maker works....a little while later my first batch of ice. Now I have a perfectly good optical sensor and a perfectly good water valve if anyone wants them CHEAP!! Gene, I certainly appreciate all your help, thanks again. Marshal
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