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Defrost timer was the bad part. Thank you for the help.
Dennis F.
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My first post here. I've learned a lot from all the discussion about self-defrost problems, but I still can't figure out why my machine is misbehaving. I hope someone can help me see what I'm missing.
About once every 2-3 months, I have the typical symptoms of self-defrost failure (cold freezer, warm fridg). I remove the panel over the evaporator, and I see it's frozen solid. I (carefully) use an electric heat gun to remove the ice. Then I replace the panel and I'm OK for a few months, until the problem happens again.
I have carefully verified that the defrost timer is advancing, and that its switches are operating normally. Also, there is continuity through the defrost thermostat and heater, and the heater gets hot.
Also, condenser coils are clean, condenser fan operates normally, evaporator fan operates normally, and air vents in freezer and fridge are not blocked.
This is a Sears Kenmore, model 596.61144101, bought new in 2001. Freezer on the bottom.
Another question, which might be related. If I operate with both controls at maximum, the lowest temp I've seen in the fridg compartment is about 40 degrees. According to the tech sheet provided with the box, it should be able to achieve 37 degrees with controls set mid/mid. I wonder if this indicates some other problem.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
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Rank: Member
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Gene, I have a GE Fridge that was passed down to us because family was upgrading. We let it sit for 2 full days before we put any kind of food in it. Now I have lost 2 gallons of milk and the temp doesn't drop below 50. The model number is TBH24TWDR. What do you think my problem is?
Thanks.
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The information you posted is not enough for diagnosis and the model number you posted does not come up. We need you to verify the model number and post more specific description on the problem.
In what position was the refrigerator while it was moved to your place?
Did you plug it in right after it was installed?
Does the compressor run?
Do the fans inside the freezer and on the back of the refrigerator run?
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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I Have A Samsung Fridge Model Rs263bwwp/xaa Freezer Is Cold But Fridge Side Warm Does It Have A Defrost Timer Or Board. Dont Have Diagram For It. Plz Help. Fridge Is Only 3 Years Old
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Rank: Member
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GE GSH25JFTABB. Have had to defrost freezer twice over the past 3 weeks. I have checked continuity on the defrost heater (0.00), continuity on defrost thermostat is also 0.00 cold or warm, also checked jumpers on the MB and that did not register anything at all between J9 and J7.
My coils frost up 3/4 of the way up from top to bottom.
I am in a quandary to get the repair guy out here and let him diagnose and then take it from there or should I just replace the MB, thermostat, thermistor and heater in one swail foop? I hate to plow a couple hundred bucks in parts to find out I could have got away with less than half that.
I sure can use some direction gene.
Richard
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Originally Posted by: Gene  bohemian, There is no defrost timer in your fridge. The defrost cycle controls by the main control board on the back of the fridge. Unplug the refrigerator, remove the wire from the "defrost heater" terminal (J9) on the control board and measure the resistance between this wire and the neutral orange wire (pin 9 on the J7 connector). The freezer must be cold at this time. If the reading is about 22 Ohms then the main control board has to be replaced. It is recommended to replace the board together with both freezer thermistors. If the circuit is open then you have to remove the rear panel in the freezer and check the defrost heater (#230 on the break down diagram)and the defrost thermostat (#240 on the break down diagram) for continuity. If any one of them is open - it has to be replaced. - The part number for the main control board is AP3950129 - The part number for the defrost heater is AP3183868 - The part number for the defrost thermostat is AP3884317 - The part number for the freezer thermistors (they are identical) is AP3185407 Gene. Gene, In your response to Bohemian (9-14-09), you recommended replacing the freezer thermistors. The defrost heater is good, the defrost thermostat was shorted when warm and was replaced. I am preparing to replace the main control board but need to know why I have to replace the thermistors and how do you check them. Thanks
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Originally Posted by: sympilot GE GSH25JFTABB. Have had to defrost freezer twice over the past 3 weeks. I have checked continuity on the defrost heater (0.00), continuity on defrost thermostat is also 0.00 cold or warm, also checked jumpers on the MB and that did not register anything at all between J9 and J7.
My coils frost up 3/4 of the way up from top to bottom.
I am in a quandary to get the repair guy out here and let him diagnose and then take it from there or should I just replace the MB, thermostat, thermistor and heater in one swail foop? I hate to plow a couple hundred bucks in parts to find out I could have got away with less than half that.
I sure can use some direction gene.
Richard Richard, Looks like there is a problem with the defrost heater. The normal resistance reading should be about 22 Ohms. - The defrost heater Part number: AP3183311
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Originally Posted by: jwsbillie Gene,
In your response to Bohemian (9-14-09), you recommended replacing the freezer thermistors. The defrost heater is good, the defrost thermostat was shorted when warm and was replaced. I am preparing to replace the main control board but need to know why I have to replace the thermistors and how do you check them.
Thanks It is recommended by GE people and I agreed with it. It's worth $8.46 Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Gene
I have a GE GSS25SGMDBS with frost problems. I have determined the board is bad. Would it be a good idea to replace the defrost thermostat and the temp sensor at the same time?
Thanks
Grumps
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