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I'd bet it is the same, and should be covered by the warranty, at least partially.
It is easy to access the board, but if you have a technician coming soon, I'd just leave it alone until they show up.
Frankly, (and this isn't meant to be mean): if you can't get at the board, removing and fixing the board is probably above your skill level.
If you are determined to check it out more-- the board is located on the back of the fridge. Just pull screws out of covers until you find it.
UNPLUG the fridge before you start pulling screws! There is high voltage back there.
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More thoughts on the cap failure: It appears that GE used a cheap voltage regulator to get the 12v that they use for the door controls (and fans?). That voltage regulator gets hot w/ wasted power from the conversion of high voltage to low voltage.
The problem isn't so much the waste heat, it is that the voltage regulator is crammed in right next to the capacitors, maybe even touching them. So the caps act as a heat sink. I suspect that this overheating of the caps leads to their early death.
I bent the voltage reg out of the way to reduce this issue. I plan to add a small heat sink to it later, in an attempt to reduce the problem.
I'll post info/pics when it is done.
Might add a switching voltage reducer... but probably not worth the effort.
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Originally Posted by: rkhayes1413  stevecrI just replace the Main Control Board (P/N: WR55X10552, $95.00) it took less than 5 minutes to change. I also replace Defrost Thermostat (P/N: WR50X10068, $9.00). No more clicking noises and the refrigerator seems to run smoother, quieter and colder. Where did you find the board for $95.00. I am finding prices all the way to $235.00. $182.00 from GE directly. Thanks John
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Originally Posted by: foxpainter Where did you find the board for $95.00. I am finding prices all the way to $235.00. $182.00 from GE directly.
Thanks
John John, It was two years ago! Since that GE had redesigned this part a few times and changed the part number as well. The current part number is WR55X10942. You can buy it from Appliance Parts Pros for just $126.95 Gene.
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It's 4 am so I don't have the level of alertness I need to read all of the responses until later, but I bought a GE Profile refrigerator in 2006. The ice and water in the door stopped working just after a year. However the ice maker still works and we were already using a PUR filter so we didn't bother with a repair since the warranty period was expired. Everything else was working just fine until now. A couple of days ago I noticed the freezer wasn't holding temperature. It wouldn't go down to zero degrees and was holding temperature at 2 degrees. Today, it wouldn't go lower than 7 degrees. Refrigerator is at 41 degrees, and won't drop down to 37 for the past few days. Tonight I got up to get a drink and the temperature readout was unlit, and the back of the refrigerator was making a clicking noise. I started to move it out and noticed the clicking stopped, so I have for now left it where it is. I then tried the ice/water dispenser for the heck of it and the clicking started again and the temperature display went out again. I moved it around a bit and the refrigerator started back up and the temperature display is lit again. Obviously it's going to need some sort of repair. I hope I can figure out what it needs and fix it before it I lose the food. Unfortunately, with Columbus Day on Monday I probably won't be able to get anyone to ship parts until Tuesday, so if anyone has a quick fix, I would appreciate it. Model # GE Profile Arctica PSC23SHRD 
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Most likely the problem is a bad main control board on the back of the refrigerator. - The main control board Part number: AP4436216
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Hi, I have a GE Fridge: PDF22MFSAWW, Serial number ZH042192. I just started getting the clicking noise from the back of the fridge. (It does stop sometimes, other times it is constant.) The LCD temp readout only works occasionally. For now, temps inside are ok. I am assuming from this thread that I need a new motherboard. Is this the correct Part Number for my model? AP4436216
I bought it in 2006 - is there a possibility the part is covered? I have an extended warranty, but of course it ended in March :(
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Very likely the problem is a bad main control board and the part number you posted is correct. Quote:...I bought it in 2006 - is there a possibility the part is covered?... Unfortunately I do not have such information. You have to talk to GE customer service about this issue. Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for GE PDF22MFSAWW | AppliancePartsPros.comGene.
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Thank you for replying Gene. The fridge has not been clicking since I posted, but the LED temperature readout is not working. It's cooling fine, but I think I will replace the board anyway, figuring it's only a matter of time.
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Originally Posted by: kate554 Thank you for replying Gene. The fridge has not been clicking since I posted, but the LED temperature readout is not working. It's cooling fine, but I think I will replace the board anyway, figuring it's only a matter of time. You are welcome. I'm afraid there is a small chance for the display board to be bad as well. - The display board assembly Part number: AP3855824
Gene.
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