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GaryK  
#11 Posted : Sunday, January 20, 2008 3:12:05 PM(UTC)
GaryK

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When stopped, should I be able to turn the basket by hand? How much resistance should there be? If there is a lot of resistance, would that indicate dragging brakes?
richappy  
#12 Posted : Sunday, January 20, 2008 6:30:34 PM(UTC)
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Pull the motor and turn the coupler clockwise. If hard to turn with thumb and forefinger, you have dragging brake shoes, or something in the tub. Use both hands to turn spin basket, If you can turn it then, you have nothing jamming the tub, but you have jamming brake shoes. If so, go to my article on this in the general talk area.
GaryK  
#13 Posted : Sunday, January 20, 2008 7:54:06 PM(UTC)
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Thanks again. I see I have my day tomorrow planned out for me.

Will let you know what I find.

If you ever get to North Jersey, let me know and the beer is on me.
GaryK  
#14 Posted : Friday, January 25, 2008 4:25:00 PM(UTC)
GaryK

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OK, I checked what you said to check - I pulled the motor and was able to turn the coupling with two fingers and the tub will turn clockwise.

But now I have a new problem - the motor won't always engage. It just hums and pulls about 30 amps. I am still able to turn the coupling and the tub and the motor shaft. Should I be able to do all that if the brake was jammed?
richappy  
#15 Posted : Saturday, January 26, 2008 2:54:49 AM(UTC)
richappy

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Check the motor start switch pins, you may have one not making contact.
If ok, pull the motor, jumper the lid switch socket, and see if the motor will now run.
GaryK  
#16 Posted : Saturday, January 26, 2008 5:29:31 AM(UTC)
GaryK

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Thanks, Rich. I did check the start switch, but doesn't hurt to check again and it is easy.

And thanks for confirming that the next step was pulling the motor to see if it runs by itself. As for jumpering the lid switch wires, there are three wires - green, brown and gray. Which ones do I jumper? I think the green is the ground.

Pulling the cabinet and putting it back is such a pain!!
richappy  
#17 Posted : Saturday, January 26, 2008 12:44:09 PM(UTC)
richappy

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Yes, just short the brown and gray wires and not the green unless you want fireworks.
GaryK  
#18 Posted : Sunday, January 27, 2008 9:10:30 AM(UTC)
GaryK

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Before disassembling again, I tried the spin cycle (I didn't want to deal with a tub full of water if the agitation cycle didn't work). The motor started but the machine was VERY noisy - like a lot of clunking. I removed the agitator and tub and tried again. Still noisy. Removed the motor to try it alone and I now notice a very slight amount of play in the shaft at the end that mates with the pump (I never noticed it before though I did check for it). The play is about 1/32 - 1/16 inch movement. The motor starts and runs in spin cycle unattached. I again tried turning the coupling by hand and find it different than last time. I could turn it a little clockwise and then it stops. I can turn it counter clockwise for several turns - presumably all I want. I can then turn it clockwise until I get back to that same spot. Then it stops.

So, does the small amount of play in the motor shaft indicate I need to correct that? If so, can I just replace the bearing or do I need to go with a whole new motor?

Do I have a problem with the brake, clutch, and/or gears?

Is it worthwhile fixing? (other than the aggravation factor - I really don't want to be tearing it apart weekly).

Thanks again.
richappy  
#19 Posted : Sunday, January 27, 2008 3:41:10 PM(UTC)
richappy

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You have bad motor bearings, time to replace the motor, not repairable.
GaryK  
#20 Posted : Sunday, January 27, 2008 3:59:01 PM(UTC)
GaryK

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Any thoughts regarding the brake, clutch and gearcase?
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